Gland nut removal...

[phi22b@ck]

Ok -- I think the parts I have from underneath my ITS car were put on there only to test my patience... It would appear that the front gland nuts are really on there good or siezed (like the *&*^%%$ rear spindle pins!).

What do you guys use to get these out? I was thinking of taking it up to Sears to figure out how big it was and get a socket to fit it.

-- I tried channel locks, vice grips -- I even tried to use an 18" pipe wrench... BUt I didnt want to strip it...

[2ManyZs]

If you are talking about the nut that holds the strut cartridge in, you're gonna have a hard time getting a socket on it over the shaft of the strut cartridge......unless the cartridge is so bad it will compress and stay compressed that is......

I have always used slip joint's and a pipe wrench for the stubborn ones. Try a "heat wrench" and then the pipe wrench. Even a small propane "heat wrench" should do the trick...:cross-eye

Or put the nut in a bench vise and using the spindle, turn the strut housing...

[Bambikiller240]

I always use a pipe wrench, 3lb hammer, and my favorite penetrant (Kroil). Most new struts I've bought come with a new Gland Nut. If your Large Crescent or Pipe wrench doesn't do the job, add a length of pipe to the wrench to gain more leverage. Make sure whatever wrench you use is positioned correctly and tightly and you shouldn't have to worry about trashing the nut so badly that it can't be re-used.

More Penetrant = Less Work! Heat is Good too.

[Victor Laury]

As Carl said,

Heat is Good too

I could not agree more. It took me a while to realize that a propane torch was the most valuble tool in my box.

I used a pipe wrench. Appy Kroil, wait, apply torch to strut housing, make the kroil boil, turn the wrench. NEXT!

[phi22b@ck]

I am installing shortened struts so the gland nut I got with the strut is not the right size...

I will spray it with WD40 and let it sit overnight -- then do it all over again tomorrow with heat... Guess I should see if WD40 is flammable before torching it eh?

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by phi22b@ck

I will spray it with WD40 and let it sit overnight -- then do it all over again tomorrow with heat... Guess I should see if WD40 is flammable before torching it eh?

Most if not all penetrants will be flammable. I'd still use heat.

WD40 isn't the greatest product, just the most widely known. I prefer many others such as Tri-Flow, PB Blaster, or IMHO the best one of all "Sili-Kroil " check out http://www.kanolabs.com/ for more information on it.

[phi22b@ck]

do you recommend ordering it in aerosol or liquid?

[Bambikiller240]

I like the Aerosol for my uses. I don't see the "Introductory Offer" on their site, but I have flyers from them for 2 - 13 oz cans for $11 SHIPPED. You may want to call and inquire about that, or I can send you one of the flyers that I've received from them. If you want the flyer, send me an email with your address and I'll be glad to send it to you. :classic:

[phi22b@ck]

Think it will help get the &*&^(*^(*&% rear spindle pin I have stuck (sheared off on one side, and mushroomed on the other) out of tthe control arm?

:classic:

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by phi22b@ck

Think it will help get the &*&^(*^(*&% rear spindle pin I have stuck (sheared off on one side, and mushroomed on the other) out of tthe control arm?

It couldn't hurt, but I didn't discover Kroil until after I did my spindle pins. The only thing that got mine out was a torch, a 30 ton press and the $50 I spent at the machine shop to have them use those tools to do it for me. I spent 3 days soaking them in WD40, and PB Blaster, and they still would not come out with my 10 lb sledge hammer and a brass drift held by a friend who trusted my aim with the sledge!

GOOD LUCK how ever you try to get them out.

Oh, grease the snot out of the new ones before you install them!

[phi22b@ck]

You know I thought I had heard some good stories of extractors, and while in the home depot I thought I had a stroke of genius --

The Plan:

Thread a nut on to the spindle pin (weld it if necessary)

Weld a length of 3/4" square tubing to the nut attached to the spindle pin

Weld a 1/2" coarse thread grade 8 nut to the top of the 3/4" tube

Slide a longer length of 1" square tubing over this assembly

Slap a washer on the top and thread a 1/2" bolt into the nut that is welded to the 3/4" tube (also welded to the spindle pin).

I thought this would yank that sucker right on out of there but nope... after my welds snapped a few times and I re-welded them on with a bit more voltage, the spindle pin actually sheared off at the weld

Had about enough of that for the night.... Thought about just throwing this unit away and yanking another set off my parts car.

[Bambikiller240]

Now that you mention it, i do have text regarding a tool made by someone that is supposed to thread onto the old spindle and "pull" it out. the guy making it is named Dan Bethea and his email addy is zthang43@hotmail.com If your spindle is sheared one one side and mushrooomed on the other, I don't think it would work, but you may want to contact him if you might need the tool for pulling another different pin. Here's the info that I have:

Hey guys it's me, Dan Bethea, selling the tool here. It's $36, includes shipping. I don't have a way to post pictures on the web currently, but drop me an email and i will send you pics and more details. zthang43@hotmail.com

HTH,

Carl