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Changed Alternator, then the cap/rotor/wires and now runs rough


RonK

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Just one thing to check, make sure the wires to the coil and distributor are on the correct side. If I remember correctly the "+" on the coil should have 12volts when ignition. is on, and the other side "-" should go to the distributor. I have connected these backwards, my car ran, but poorly.

--Justin

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Looks like we found the problem... Broken wire on the water temperature switch.

Any leads on where I can find a Water temperature switch for '75-'78 280z. I'm seeing a lot of interchange of the terms "water temperature switch" and "water temperature sensor". From what I'm seeing they're not the same. The FSM says "water temperature switch"

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Long Story Short.... looks like the Temp Sensor (not "Switch", which btw only pertains to automatics which have dual pickup distributors and rely on the temp "Switch" to control the retarding and advancing of the distributor... My Z is a Manual, hence, the temp switch had nothing to do with my problem)...as I was saying, looks like I bumped the Temp Senor lead while changing my distributor wires. :oops: Apparently, the senor "tested ok" but after fixing the lead the sensor then needed to be replaced.

Car is running well but still working kinks out...such as I'm noticing that, after shutting off engine for awhile(to run into the store for 10-20mins)AND if the engine temp gauge is reading well toward the hot side(Before Starting),the engine is difficult to start...acts as if it is either flooded or can't get enough fuel initially and slowly ramps up to normal operation. After it has time to cool down, it has no significant problems starting.... Ideas??? And Don't Say "It's the Temp Sensor"!?! LOL ...Kidding :)

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