My Datsun Spirit L28 Build.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Thanks for the info guys!

I installed my reverse switch yesterday and plugged my neutral switch port. I will install the shim where you suggest Michael, thanks!

Last night I was able to get the final batch of parts painted. I had to order a gasket that goes in between the cylinder head and thermostat housing. For some reason, the Nissan thermostat kit did not come with that. I also need to get a new O2 sensor bung from Innovative Motorsports as the one welded to my old housing is CRAZY gorilla welded and I do not think it would survive the removal process.

Today I want to try to get the transmission ready for install. I have to install the boot, the clutch fork, throw out bearing, collar or sleeve, and apply grease.

Should be smooth. So far things have progressed beautifully. No major hiccups. My new 3 core aluminum radiator came in today from Champion. Have heard mixed reviews about these things, But I will give it a try. Hopefully it is durable enough for road use. More pics to come today.

[Travel'n Man]

Stephen -

Show us that radiator when you get a chance - I've been thinking about replacing mine but just have not gotten around to it yet - what did you do with your fan? Did you move to electric? Do you use a shroud and will it fit on the 3 core?

[Zedyone_kenobi]

No problem, I will snap those pics today for you.

I got the engine and transmission mounted yesterday. I used a trick I think I heard Blue mention a long time ago. I used 4 head bolts to screw into the block when the transmission was close enough. This allowed me to get the block 95% there before I ever tried to engage a spline. Then it was just a matter of scooting the tranny close to the engine on the transmission jack and give it a wiggle and it slid right on. NO issues at all. Man I almost had to laugh out loud when it went in, as I remember the days lying on my back installing a turbo 350 transmission in my Trans Am as a kid. Amazing the things we did before we had the tools to make life easier... I honestly am not sure how I managed to live this long. LOLLOL

But I finished the respray of the inner fender and radiator support, and it looks so clean and new. Well newer anyway.

Here you can see after I got the transmission aligned and mated, I just removed one head bolt at a time and replaced it with a standard engine/tranny bolt.

Here is my inner fender. I need to do something to tidy up those wires, and add some new wire loom. I also want to take some scotch bright to all the brake lines and clean them up a bit. I think some new shiny gold zinc plated bolts holding on the fender would be ideal as well. But I have to stop somewhere on this.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

On quick question, what is the torque rating on those engine to transmission bolts? I looked at my 72 FSM and did not find anything. The just say reinstall the opposite how you took it off. I will search my other other Datsun books, for this, unless you guys have that number off the top of your head.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Okay, this is the radiator comparison that was asked for. Both of my radiators are 3 core, and not original 71 240Z rads. The one I have looks to be similar to the one Black dragon sells. But the PO installed it 10 years ago according to the records. My car had a slight front end accident in its past, so I would wager it was replaced at that time.

They are darn near exactly the same size in all dimensions. in width they are nearly identical.

Well my plan is to just use the stock clutch fan that I currently run on my old radiator. I never used a shroud of any kind. I would rather have the mechanical fan vs the electric. Plus I already have it. So why spend more money. Hopefully this rad fits just as wells my last one and the fan will never touch it.

Edited July 8, 2012 by Zedyone_kenobi

[Travel'n Man]

You may want to look at Speed Bleeders for your slave and brake lines..............just a thought when you go to bleed your slave. I just ordered some for all the way round my Z.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread33916.html

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Already have them on all the brakes! But the slave is not a bad idea at all bud!

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Well one hour later and today was the day. I got that bad boy in there!

Had to remove the front bumper to get the engine back enough, but managed to get her in there!

Now it is time to really start the clock. I have to get all the assessories bolted to her and then turn the key

[siteunseen]

I'll say you drive it to work in the morning. You've got the fever man. More cow bell!

[Zedyone_kenobi]

bummer, I noticed today that the boot on my brand new tie rod end that I just put on last month split in half! Guess the tire hanging down at such an extreme angle split the rubber, but man you would think that would not happen. I wonder if MSA would warranty that part.

[Ben's Z]

How/what method did you repaint the engine bay? Gun, rattle can, etc.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Well I did not repaint the firewall as you can plainly tell in my photos. Just too much removing of things I just recently installed like brake booster, clutch master cylinder, etc. But I did my best on the inner fender on the drivers and passengers side. I used a rattle can for the whole process to answer your question Ben. and a WHOLE lot of drop lots and masking tape. Overspray is just terrible. That is why I have the huge drop cloth on the car in the pics.

I used this company, that www.automotivetouchup.com

They paint match 901 silver in rattle cans, pints, brush on touch ups, etc. Whatever you like. Since my car was repainted some 15 years ago and the color is just very close to 901 on the respray, you can imagine that this mix is not 100% spot on. But I will say this, for the engine bay, in any light you choose, I would dare you to tell the difference. It is that close. I think both my inner fenders look very nice now, and I am quite pleased. They also sell the compatible sandable primer, base coat, and clear, all in rattle cans. So there is no guesswork if it will work together. I sanded everything with 320 grit until it was smooth and free of any blemishes. Then I hit it with the sandable primer 2x and hit it gain with 500 grit. Then I applied two coats of base 901 silver, and then 2 coats of clear. It was really super easy with the engine out. And it shines quite well.

Will I regret not doing the entire engine bay. Probably at times, but for the most part, I can always do the upper firewall with the engine still in the car if it gets too annoying. I think I can just clean off most of that grime anyway. My car gets driven fairly often so I can live with it being a non concourse quality. Truth be told, I have been bitten too many times by the while I am at it bug, so I wanted to keep this detour to a minimum. Still so much work to be done on the install.