Yes, that is in the plan. Just have not done it yet. I have a place set aside for this, but have not instituted it yet.

And the heavens brought down upon us a collector pipe laden with Jet Hot,

And Zedy saw that it was good, and clock can begin to tick again for the sound of L6 thunder

Edited July 31, 201212 yr by Zedyone_kenobi

Your poetic self is emerging!

I 'ed pretty hard at the music. Nice video! Now lets get one of the motor's first start

Stunning engine bay, love the fuel line setup. I must start looking for a similar fuel rail myself, looks waaay better than just connecting the triples with hoses and t-joints. :classic:

Topby

go to ebay motors and search for

Universal Aluminum Fuel Rail

they sell it in different lengths, finishes, sizes, etc. You will have to buy fittings, hoses, and many drills and taps, but if you take your time, it is super easy to make one.

Plan fit and then cut.

As promised, here is my attempt at polishing off the lettering on my valve cover. Problem is when I did this I inadvertently hit the bars that run the length of the valve cover, so I had to polish them... and then it goes on and on... But I am happy with the results!

Money shot in so many ways......awesome job mate.

My most sincere thanks!

Tonight was a tale of two stories.

I set out tonight and told my lovely wife to expect some noise out of the garage tonight!!

Well I finished installing the exhaust, tightened up all hangers, then wired up the dizzy, and went to wire up the O2 sensor. Well Murphy struck again.

It would see that since I refused to cut a hole in my new shifter boot, I was left stuck looking for another 'orifice' to stick the ridiculously short O2 sensor through.

You see in Innovative's eternal wisdom they decided to make the O2 sensor as big around as a quarter and the plug on the other end of the wires as big around as a shoebox (mild exaggeration). So I decided to cut all the wires and make a long jumper with bullet connectors for future removal. I also decide to run them through the old choke cable grommet on the firewall.

As my luck is consistent, I ran completely out of my last connector. So now I am not making smoke and fire because of a dumb 2 dollar electrical connector.

I only hope the O2 sensor is not calibrated for a certain length of wire. There is a calibration technique called out in the owners manual for the O2 sensor, so I may do that again.

Edited August 2, 201212 yr by Zedyone_kenobi

I put a hole behind the heater panel the size of the large plugs that are used for the AC holes.

It is a pain that there is no small end or disconnects for the sensor.

I would check before cutting any of the wires.

It's always something isn't it?

It's also a pain that the wires have to be twisted to put the sensor in.

Don't forget to calibrate

Well the baby fired up today. Temp is rock solid at 180 F, oil pressure is higher than my last engine, but do not ask me what it is, as I have no idea due to the wonderful amount of information displayed on the OEM gage!

Now how did it go?

Well at first she would only spit and sputter and run off of the fuel the accelerator pump put out. Meaning, I was not getting enough gas. (Keep in mind I am running a 55F8 idle jets in the webers) So I opened up the idle mixture screws until she would start which happened at 2 turns out. But she was running very lean 15.1 AFR's. I continued to turn the idle mixture screws until I had a smooth idle and ended up with about 2.7 turns out from fully seated, running 12.5:1 at idle and 1050 rpm. So so far so good.

I let her idle as Eiji recommends and did some driving. Engine sounds FANTASTIC. I cannot really comment on performance as I have to keep it under 2500 rpm for a while per my break in instructions. But at slow rolling through the neighborhood in all gears, the AFR is about 15.8:1 just cruising around. So it will be obvious I will need to so some work on the carb tuning from my OEM L24 to my modified L28. NO big surprise there though...Looking forward to it actually.

Now on to something far more disconcerting.

My transmission shift lever is extremely stiff. I can put it in any gear, but it is hard as the ****ens trying to move it OUT OF 1st gear. From 2nd to 3rd and in and out of any other gear it is easy. But trying to move it out of 1st is extremely hard. Same thing happens for trying to move it out of Reverse. NO idea if this is normal for a newly rebuilt transmission. I will post a video of the completed engine running soon.

She starts up immediately, settles to a great idle very well. NO smoke, no issues at all. Feels very torquey, but obviously needs tuning. But the engine install part of this thread is done. Pics coming !!!!!

As for what I am going to do for the carbs, well that is going to be a new thread in the Carburetor section.

Edited August 5, 201212 yr by Zedyone_kenobi

Regarding the tranny, it probably IS a bit stiff since it is new. First and reverse are non synchro gears, and you may need a bit more throw from your clutch to disengage power when going into or coming out of these gears. However, before adjusting I would get the tranny nice and warm. That means you'll need to put some miles on it so the fluid can heat up. It will normally take a tranny more time than a motor to get up to operating temp.

Edited August 5, 201212 yr by tlorber

First gear definitely has a syncronizer on this transmission. Make sure the clutch is properly adjusted first, before jumping to any other conclusions.

Can't wait for the video especially after it's broken in!

Edited August 5, 201212 yr by LeonV