Mike B Posted June 23, 2012 Share #61 Posted June 23, 2012 Looks nice, but why the red valve cover?-Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedyone_kenobi Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share #62 Posted June 23, 2012 That is how Eiji does all his motors. He tells me that it is his tribute to the BRE racing colors for DATSUN. red/white/blueI am debating on if I will leave it on or put on my polished valve cover. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travel'n Man Posted June 23, 2012 Share #63 Posted June 23, 2012 Great dedication to your Dad! I'm sure he would like what you go goin' on with the engine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike B Posted June 23, 2012 Share #64 Posted June 23, 2012 That is how Eiji does all his motors. He tells me that it is his tribute to the BRE racing colors for DATSUN. red/white/blueI am debating on if I will leave it on or put on my polished valve cover. Cool, I didn't know that. I will have to remind Eiji the next time I see him that the BRE 240Z had a black valve cover though. I would probably go with the polished valve cover if it were my car, especially with it being silver, but I suppose other people may like the contrast of the red. -Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedyone_kenobi Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share #65 Posted June 23, 2012 Well do not go by what I said verbatim. What he actually said was Datsun racing colors. I may have mistyped BRE in there to the fact that I am a BRE fanboy. HAHABut I love that magazine cover! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted June 23, 2012 Share #66 Posted June 23, 2012 Engine looks beautiful. Hey, do me a favor? As mundane as it sounds, would you please take a pic of the wooden support that your motor is sitting on once you lift the motor up and off? I've got a buddy who's going to pull the motor out of his Z and stuff it to the back of his garage for maybe a year. I suggested he build a little wooden structure like what you've got there and put a set of heavy duty casters on the bottom so he could roll it around the garage if he needed to. Lift the motor out of the car and set down on a rolling frame made out of wood? And then... I see your pic with something similar to what I suggested to him!! :bulb: Yeah, I know... "A talking frog? Now THAT'S cool!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280z Posted June 23, 2012 Share #67 Posted June 23, 2012 An engine mount can be used to hold engine with flywheel. 3 short head bolts and 1 long head bolt with iron pipe nipples and washers works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedyone_kenobi Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share #68 Posted June 23, 2012 You know blue, it is just scary how you knew I was fighting with this just 2 hours ago. I was going to go get some spacers at the hardware store to do just this.Update. Hood is off today and I am getting ready to get her up on jack stands. WAAAY up on jackstands. Pics to follow. I will get those pics of the wooden block and I will take some measurements for you Captain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted June 24, 2012 Share #69 Posted June 24, 2012 I will get those pics of the wooden block and I will take some measurements for you Captain.Thanks much. Doesn't have to be too detailed. He's pretty handy with his table saw. Just something that I can point him to and say "Something kinda like this".I'm going to be helping with the engine pull, and I'm going to be lobbying for a pull with the tranny attached, so whatever "dolly" he comes up with will have to account for the trans as well, but in any event, the overall concept is still the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted June 24, 2012 Share #70 Posted June 24, 2012 The Harbor Freight 1,000 lb moving dollies are about perfect for holding an engine. Add a few boards cut to width on the bottom, and a couple of 2x4s to hold it upright. The wheels on mine don't swivel as easily as they could but I've had an engine on one for about 8 months now, just fine. Easily rolled around and in to corners for storage.I got the wooden one when they were only $18.http://www.harborfreight.com/material-handling/dollies.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocket280z Posted June 24, 2012 Share #71 Posted June 24, 2012 Whatever you do, don't put small chokes on your carbs. I know you said you wanted a lot of low end power. Power below 2500rpm is the same or less than stock once you put in a cam with more than 260 duration in one of these motors. So the only improvement you will see with the new motor is above 2500rpm. The cam you have, with apropriate head work, can make peak power around 6400rpm. Many folks put too small of a choke/venturi on DCOE carbs, 32mm, and limit that to less than 6000rpm. 32mm is an adaquate size for a totally stock l24, and ok for l28. Really the most you can make with the 32mm chokes on there is around 160whp, as they're literally choking the engine. You can make that with the stock 280z engine properly set up(ITS engine). You should put, at least, a 34mm choke in your side draft carbs. That should get your peak power above 6000rpm peak power(around 180whp) and only sacrifice 5-10 ft/lbs at the wheels below 4000rpm, compared to the 32mm choke. A 36mm choke would likely get peak power(190+whp) to the 6300rpm area, trading another 5ft/lb in the lower end. The length of your intake system is important, you appear to be on the right track with the timing, and naturally you need to have a decent exhaust system. Anyway, make sure you are using at least 34mm chokes, on that engine. I think you will find it's the best use of the engine he built you. Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travel'n Man Posted June 24, 2012 Share #72 Posted June 24, 2012 Whatever you do, don't put small chokes on your carbs. I know you said you wanted a lot of low end power. Power below 2500rpm is the same or less than stock once you put in a cam with more than 260 duration in one of these motors. So the only improvement you will see with the new motor is above 2500rpm. The cam you have, with apropriate head work, can make peak power around 6400rpm. Many folks put too small of a choke/venturi on DCOE carbs, 32mm, and limit that to less than 6000rpm. 32mm is an adaquate size for a totally stock l24, and ok for l28. Really the most you can make with the 32mm chokes on there is around 160whp, as they're literally choking the engine. You can make that with the stock 280z engine properly set up(ITS engine). You should put, at least, a 34mm choke in your side draft carbs. That should get your peak power above 6000rpm peak power(around 180whp) and only sacrifice 5-10 ft/lbs at the wheels below 4000rpm, compared to the 32mm choke. A 36mm choke would likely get peak power(190+whp) to the 6300rpm area, trading another 5ft/lb in the lower end. The length of your intake system is important, you appear to be on the right track with the timing, and naturally you need to have a decent exhaust system. Anyway, make sure you are using at least 34mm chokes, on that engine. I think you will find it's the best use of the engine he built you. Enjoy!I agree totally - Dave Rebello and I had a conversation last week and stated the exact same thing - I am currently looking for some 36mm venturi's to put on my 40 Mikuni's. No need to not tap on horsepower if it is there. If anybody has any 36's for Mikuni's send me a PM - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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