240z engine and trans removal

[ironhelix]

I just wanted to confirm that the engine and transmission can be pulled as a unit. Radiator's out, of course. I thought I installed it assembled using a load leveler by myself, but that was 12-13 years ago and my memory isn't always accurate. 8(

The engine is being pulled tomorrow so that's why I posted here. Thanks for your help! Dave

[emptech]

I've pulled my 2.4l and 4sp man xmission out separately and together, only problem is

getting the shift lever in and out of the hole in the tunnel, just takes patients, I've

even done it myself without a helper, yes, can be done.

Jim

[siteunseen]

I pulled my 2.8 motor and manual transmission together with a hoist and a ratchet strap on the rear for changing the angle while raising up. That was an idea I beleive JeffG78 uses and it worked great for 1 person. Now that I've spent alot of time and $$$ on my rebuild I ordered a load leveler from amazon for $25 with free shipping, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PX4YCI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01. It is a great looking tool as I haven't used it yet. The ratchet strap would be too nerve racking fot the reinstallation. Buy a 2" rubber cap at Lowes for the transmission fluid. Or wrap it with plastic bags and tape. Edited June 11, 2012 by siteunseen

[z boy mn]

I had never ever pulled an engine and/or tranny before, but a couple weeks ago I pulled both (at once) from my 240Z as I continue to work on salvaging parts. I borrowed an engine hoist and used a bolt where the engine hook used to go and one in the rear manifold bolt. Surprisingly, it only took about 30 minutes once I unhooked everything else, and I was working by myself. I had made it easier by taking out the radiator and I actually cut away a lot of the front end...so maybe that was cheating a little...but I was surprised by how simple it was. Also, I did use a drip pan to catch the gear oil on the way up...that took up most of the time, actually, as I kept adjusting its position because didn't want to get the oil all over my floor when the drive-shaft fell out. How did your process go?

[Carl Beck]

I've pulled them both ways; together and separately. If you intend putting the engine on an engine stand for teardown - I'd pull the engine by itself. Much easier to deal with if your by yourself as well. With the engine out of the way it is easier to drop the tranny as well.

If you are just going to set the engine and tranny aside as a unit - for body work on the car - then pull them together.

If you are going to buy an Engine Leveler - spend a little extra money and get a fairly good one. This one from Jags or O'Reilly for example are a better design than the less expensive ones. The cheap one's can be a complete PIA as they jam or slip in jerks and starts.

JEGS Performance Products #555-80048

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/80048/10002/-1?parentProductId=

and

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ACD9/34134/N0767.oap?ck=Search_N0767_-1_-1&pt=N0767&ppt=C1944

Picture Below:

Cheap one on the Left {Yellow} has a Pivot Point higher above the slide bar, so finer adjustments are harder to make. The cheap one on the left uses a round bolt to support the slide bar and above the bar so there is too much play and they do not operate smoothly..you crank the handle and nothing happens so you crank some more - and then the slide bar finally jumps to the next position... Hard to describe but anyone that has used one knows what I'm talking about.

The more expensive one on the Right {Red} has pivot point closer to the slide bar and more stable slide bar support. It also has a finer thread on the rod which give you much smoother action.

Snap On uses a roller bearing for the lower support of the bar...{expensive!}. But note the design of the Snap On and the red one from Jags..

The one from Jags is $60.00 vs $25.00 for one from Home Depot.. The extra $35.00 is worth every penny.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Jeff G 78]

I always pull them as a unit. I've done it dozens of times over the past 25+ years and I find it to be much easier. Like siteunseen said, I use two pairs of ratchet straps as levelers. The commercial levelers are really tall and can make it hard to clear the rad support if you don't have a lot of garage height to work with. I pulled a yoke off an old driveshaft for a trans plug, but you can always find something that works to keep the oil in. Gear oil is NASTY smelling, so be sure to contain it.

[240260280z]

......there is too much play and they do not operate smoothly..you crank the handle and nothing happens so you crank some more - and then the slide bar finally jumps to the next position... Hard to describe but anyone that has used one knows what I'm talking about.

FWIW,

Carl B.

You could not have stated it any better... when they do that small slip,it is startling and can hurt flesh or metal if one does not pay attention.