Re-wire of the Dash Harness over the summer

[fiveleaf]

See car info at bottom for specs that may affect wiring.

Car is currently at Whitehead Performance in Toronto, waiting for a new Mallory Ignition Sensor for the distributor. It really needs to be running while I'm working on it, and I'm only willing to make the tow once. For those interested, Whitehead Performance also has described a solution for the famous door-adjustment issue; apparently re-shimming the hinges works well.

I spent a lot of time re-wiring the engine bay two summers ago. Much better now. Vintage Connections with proper tools and heatshrink used throughout. Everything cumulates into that port in the firewall under the passenger's feet.

The dash is a real nightmare, to say the least. Electrical fires and multiple el-chepo splices don't fare well in old wiring. I want to re-wire the dash, but I am posting here because I am unsure what exactly I need to purchase, and if there's any resources out there I should be aware of. Questions follow, any advise/input appreciated

(1) It seems like the majority of others that have gone before me have used and said good things about Painless wiring harnesses. Which harness do I purchase (already having a new modern fusebox from MSA)

(2) I have a lot of cheap heatshrink, but it is exactly that... cheap heatshrink. I've bought multiple packages of the good stuff, but it's very pricy to buy locally. Want to recommend me a good online source? It all looks too good to be true, and most of it probably is.

(3) Asides from a vintage connection CK4 refill kit, and heatshrink, is there anything else I'll need? Fuses/relays for other devices? Gauges to be done later. Too pricy for now, especially for something that's accurate and looks stock.

(4) I've done a few searches, and everything kind of points to this one thread. More knowledge is always appreciated!

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/29786-painless-harness-to-z-column-harness-headlight-combo-switch/

Thanks!

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Car info:

72' 240z (L28 triple webers); manual transmission.

Mallory Unite, Hyfire VI CD ignition, Crane PS92 coil.

Halogen Headlights

High-output running lights (future)

High-output dashboard lights (MSA package)

High-output alternator

Wiper Motor Upgrade (future)

Electrical fuel pump and (fan in the future)

No blower motor or related wires/pipes

Car is bare metal (with POR-15 anti-rust) from the firewall to the end of the rear hatch

The (+) terminal of the battery leads to a power distribution block, which directly powers the high-draw equipment (headlight relay, CD Ignition box, CD Player & amp). The rest of the car is also powered from this block.

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Headlight and parking light relays will be used (thanks Dave!)

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[SteveJ]

I'm not sure where you read good things about Painless. Most of what I have seen was from people in pain.

You can get replacement connectors from Vintage Connections. There is even a link on the site for a source to get wires in the same colors as the Z. The big advantage is that you can re-wire it according to the factory wiring diagram, and you won't have to figure out how to jury-rig anything.

You don't mention relays for the headlights or running lights. Without those, you are asking for more problems.

By the way, your link is bad.

[fiveleaf]

I followed a few links from Vintage Connections, but have been unable to find a place that sells the same colored wires for the z.

I purchased the Vintage Connection "Professional Kit CK-2" and "Professional Kit CK-4", as well as their crimping tool, when I re-wired the engine bay. I will refill the CK-4 kit so that the new (Painelss or otherwise) harness will mesh well with the stock harness.

Is there any jury-rigging involved in the painless harness? I thought that it would attach pretty well to the regular harness, only using slightly larger gauge of wire & labeled every few inches with what that wire specifically does, instead of the factory spec color codes. Have you read anything about people having to jury-rig the painless harness?

Mentioned above, Headlight and parking light relays will be used. HLH and PLH from Dave (ZsOnDaBrain).

Strange, link works for me...

[SteveJ]

http://www.riwire.com/

They don't have a kit for the Z. You'll have to spec the wire colors needed.

[fiveleaf]

I'm not sure how to edit posts with the new fourms... been awhile :$

SteveJ, sorry for making the font of my car's specs so small. I probably would have missed that too.

Anyways, if painless is the way to go, my first question has been ansewerd this morning. It would be Painless #30021, 18-circuit, wires only. In addition to what is provided in the 12-circuit, this would add wires for my electric fuel pump, raido control (used for up/down), backup lights, and an Accessory circuit. Others (Power Doors/Windows) might be used elsewhere, but I doubt it. Wires physically extend to the four corrners of the car, as well as into the engine bay. Also confirmed (via calling painless) that their wire guage is larger diamater than the stock 240z wires. $416 + tx/shipping.

What remains? A source for heatshrink, recommendations on any other materials/references I might use (as well as painless or non-painless)...

[383chevelle]

Well I forgot I was digging through old post when I posted this but I have already done it so for information sake prowireusa is a good place to get wiring components from.

Edited January 3, 2013 by 383chevelle