I picked this up last night for a song. Now I can get serious with this body work. NICE. Very excited to get it hooked up. Should make doing the motor swap this weekend go pretty smooth.

Nice, quality tank for sure.

Good For You!

Looks like 60 gal - 3.5HP {actual} runs on 220/240volt ?? Should be pretty quite running as well. I'm sure you'll be happy with it.

Most guys buy used hockey pucks to use as isolation mounts to the floor. My local Goodyear Rubber Store {sells Goodyear hose, belts and fittings} was able to supply everything I needed to install my compressor {compressed air fittings, quick releases, flexible lines, etc}. Plus they give me thick rubber mats to use as isolation mounts for the feet. They also supplied Parker Qucklock hoses and fitting for plumbing air around the garage. Saved a lot of running around!! Wasn't cheap - but everything is very high quality.

If you have a Goodyear Rubber Store near you - might pay to visit them...

FWIW,

Carl B.

Its the 60 gallon runs on 220, I had to get new panel put in my garage because the old one wouldn't push it. I'm just happy I can run serious air tools now. Might not be a big enough tank to run a sandblaster very long but i'm patient enough to let it cycle if i need to do much blasting. I like the idea of the rubber mats, i saw some in tractor supply for horses, like fatigue mats for them in the stalls i guess but they were pretty thick i might get one and cut to put under it.

If you give the compressor time to catch up, you should be OK running a sandblaster. Granted, you won't be running it for LONG periods of time, but you can get it done.

One suggestion, if the drain valve for the tank is at the bottom of it, you may want to raise it a few inches to make it easier to reach in and drain it. Alternatively, there are "auto" drain valves you could install, but without clearance you won't be able to install it easily.

FWIW

E

Congrats, I have a 60 gallon but swapped the air pump out to a radius 3 clyinder air pump with a continuous run feature on it. The radius air pumps cool better since each cylinder is bathed in air flow instead of one hiding behind the other. The continous run feature allows the pump to run steady while air demands are high which prevent the air pump from stopping and starting repititive thus putting heavy loads on your capacitators. Mine is set to run 120psi on continous but shuts down on the pressure regulator at 135 psi. I can run non-stop with my pot-blaster with no problems but the key to blasting is matching your nozzle air flow to you pump air flow.

Enjoy the ability to run real air tools!

Congrats on your new purchase! A 60 gallon is a good for all around home garage use. As said above it won't run anything for too long without having to let the compressor catch. The factory drain is probably directly on the bottom and is pretty useless. I picked up my compressor on CL around a year ago for a song too, had two 220v plugs run in my garage, made some feet for it out of scrap 2x4's, and modified the drain valve using plumbing parts from home depot. You can make one as fancy as you want but for me this works really well.

Looks good. I've got to get a line dryer and filter but otherwise its installed and looks pretty sharp. It works great. Ive had all kinds of air tools for years but never able to fully use them and man am I happy to hear that cut off tool run constant.

Edited July 22, 201212 yr by MotoManMike
uploaded wrong pic

Congrats on your new purchase! A 60 gallon is a good for all around home garage use. As said above it won't run anything for too long without having to let the compressor catch. The factory drain is probably directly on the bottom and is pretty useless. I picked up my compressor on CL around a year ago for a song too, had two 220v plugs run in my garage, made some feet for it out of scrap 2x4's, and modified the drain valve using plumbing parts from home depot. You can make one as fancy as you want but for me this works really well.

I like that. My Porter Cable 60 gallon compressor has the original drain valve and it's a pain to get to and operate. I might have to upgrade it to a 1/4 turn ball valve out in the open like yours.

Mike, what ever you do don't sucked into buying an inline oiler, (they sold me one) keep it dry and clean. A drop of oil down the input to the tool will keep the tool working fine. When you start prepping for paint that's when the lack of inline oiler realy

pays off. You'll be very glad you never contaminated your air hose.

Looks good. I've got to get a line dryer and filter but otherwise its installed and looks pretty sharp.

Hi Moto:

Some suggestions. Looking at the picture - it looks like you used 1/2" black iron pipe - Yes/No?

The line from the compressor shut off valve to the wall - if it isn't already - should be rubber/flexible, with a quick disconnect on one end. When you get a dryer {aka water separator} / filter, you'll want to add an air pressure regulator to the line - and you can mount them on the wall just before the line to your hose reel.{water vapor will condense in the iron pipe}.

Most air tools are rated at 90psi - and you don't want to over feed them. It just drains your supply more quickly and doesn't gain any power at the tool. It can also wear them out faster.

The Milton 1108 1/2" Filter and Regulator Duo is a reasonably priced - higher quality unit. I'd stay away from the less expensive IR units sold by HF and Northern Tool.

Is the junction box - there for a Quick Electrical Disconnect?

FWIW,

Carl B.

I did use black pipe, its code here. Also that is a junction box, I forgot to buy a cover plate at lowes this weekend but there is also a twist lock plug to disconnect it if needed (also code here). I appreciate the info on the line dryer. I havn't bought one because the price gaps are so large I wanted to research more but I will look into the Milton unit. I installed a fifth wheel hitch in my dads F250 this weekend and boy did it make it easy cutting that bed having a good air supply.