Regarding safety and glasses. A high school friend who became a mason got a face full of grinder output when he stuck his head around the corner of a building tower to talk to a co-worker. He got metal in his eyes and had stabbing pain when he put eye drops in that night.The next day his boss saw his swollen eyes and sent him to the doc. He said they effectively popped out his eyes on his cheeks to clean and remove the metal while awake....not sure how far they come out but you get the point. He was bandaged up in the hospital for over a week.

always wear eye protection.

thanks Blue for the advice . I am a stone sculptor as a part time income and I have all the necessary face protection and a industrial vacuum system that i will set up to capture all the grindings .

Thanks for the help

Chris

Seems to me you shouldn't have to cut around on your car for an MSA part.

Well... if you're swapping in ZX transmissions then you have to grind that little boss off the ZX 5 speed. That boss does not exist on the 280Z 5 speed. Common thing to do. Like grinding off the boss on an R200 to give more room for a 2.5" or 3" exhaust.

Seems to me you shouldn't have to cut around on your car for an MSA part.

Seems to me you should get social security after paying in for the lifetime of your career, but we all know how that's going to end up.

Seems to me you should get social security after paying in for the lifetime of your career, but we all know how that's going to end up.

Yeah, not enough to pay for the grinder.

I have the exact same issue with my 6-1 MSA header. After shoehorning the header into the engine bay to check out the fit etc I noticed it either hitting or about 1 mm away from that little ear on the tranny housing. Hard to say how much contact as I have not bolted it up yet. I have the stock 4 speed tranny on my 280 which i believe has the same bellhousing as the stock 5speed. I am planning to do the exact same thing as Hardway and grind some of this away. Maybe it should fit better in this area from the supplier but I would rather grind this away than deal with returning the header and going through all that crap. Living in Canada, it is hard enough to get this hardware in a timely manner to begin with. I'm also planning to put in a flexpipe between the end of the header and the rest of the system to reduce the stress on the header flange. I'm putting in larger studs from a Nissan Titan as well to avoid any issues with the studs on the ends of the header. Doing things right because I sure as heck do not want to do this again.

Good advice on the eyewear. I had a clip from a brakejob fly into my eye once. Thankfully no perm damage. Protect your hands too. I almost sliced through my wrist getting the heat shield off the intake. It has some darn sharp edges.

I used those too. Seems a lot more secure.

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I used those too. Seems a lot more secure.

Those are the ones. although when put side to side with the stock nissan ones the titan studs protruded a bit longer on the side that threaded into the head (unthreaded bit at the end). I didn;t want to drill any further into the head to put these on because i am unsure about how much material is there in the head so i chopped this extra bit off the studs.

also of note to anyone doing this, the thread on the end going into the head is 10 x 1.5, and the thread that takes the out of round nut is 10 x 1.25. You will need a couple 10 x 1.25 nuts to torque these studs down as you dont want to use the locking nut for that.

I am tempted to do all the studs with these, but I think doing the ends and the middle stud (was a little stripped on mine) would be fine to sure things up better.

These studs can also be tightened up a bit more like the M10 intake studs on top.