Linkage to shorter cannon intake?

[240260280z]

Just installed a cannon intake for triple webers on the '71 240z last evening but the stock rod from the firewall to the cannon is too long.

Is there a year that the 240z rod was shorter?

Presently the rod is at the machine shop getting shortened.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Blue, had the same issue, as well as the rod with the clevis being bent right out of the box. When I rolled it, it would wobble. Ended up ditching the OEM push pull Rod linkage (which I hated to do since it was so darn perfect feeling) and going with a cable. I did not throw any of my OEM stuff away though, as someday I will pick up another clevis rod and try the pushrods. I am still not thrilled about how the LOKAR cable feels. To me nothing is as precise as those rods that Datsun chose. When they are fresh and functioning perfectly, they are so sweet and positive feeling to the feet.

Let me know how your shortened rod turns out as I always wanted to try that. I think it is the proper way to do things. Also let us know if your rod ends that screw into your manifold line up perfectly, mine are not, and if I use all three, I get binding in the rod and it is very hard to turn. Caused the throttle to not return to closed at times. I solved this by only using two rod ends, and using a hardended steel precision 5/16" driveshaft (mcmastercarr). Deflections are minimal and almost non existent.

[240260280z]

I am looking at online pics and it seems the 260z has a shorter rod from the firewall to the manifold...I am thinking the cannon kit was designed and marketed for flat top carb swaps.

[zKars]

"The rod is at the machine shop being shortened..."

Lose your hacksaw? or did you decide to shorten the end with the clevis?

[240260280z]

Yeah, I need the "U" shaped end and the ball joint end as one unit. The middle is too long.

[LeonV]

Blue, had the same issue, as well as the rod with the clevis being bent right out of the box. When I rolled it, it would wobble. Ended up ditching the OEM push pull Rod linkage (which I hated to do since it was so darn perfect feeling) and going with a cable. I did not throw any of my OEM stuff away though, as someday I will pick up another clevis rod and try the pushrods. I am still not thrilled about how the LOKAR cable feels. To me nothing is as precise as those rods that Datsun chose. When they are fresh and functioning perfectly, they are so sweet and positive feeling to the feet.

Let me know how your shortened rod turns out as I always wanted to try that. I think it is the proper way to do things. Also let us know if your rod ends that screw into your manifold line up perfectly, mine are not, and if I use all three, I get binding in the rod and it is very hard to turn. Caused the throttle to not return to closed at times. I solved this by only using two rod ends, and using a hardended steel precision 5/16" driveshaft (mcmastercarr). Deflections are minimal and almost non existent.

I did the same with my Cannon manifold, in terms of rod ends. However, one of my rod ends was bent for whatever reason so I'm unsure whether it's an alignment issue or rod-end issue at this point. It would be great to run a hardened steel rod, but I'd have to cut and weld the U-bracket through which the Z throttle rod fits into.

I am looking at online pics and it seems the 260z has a shorter rod from the firewall to the manifold...I am thinking the cannon kit was designed and marketed for flat top carb swaps.

Correct, the 260Z rod fit perfectly with the Cannon manifold.