Car Won't Start

[TheCrazySwede]

Dear Classic Z Cars,

My '77 280z is my first car and I love it very much. Since I'm not an expert on the matter, I find myself useless in times when mechanical experience and knowledge is required. At the moment, my car won't start. I don't know what it is...The car was fine, but then I didn't drive it for 2 days. I came back to it and now it won't start.

I got a video of it trying to start. (Still be processed...I'll post it when ready) Maybe you guys can help me out. There are no leaks, the car has fuel (checked lines and there's fuel going through), the car has oil, and the battery seems to be ok, but I'm not 100% sure. The Volts stay at around 13 with the key ON, and it drops down to around 11 when you try to start the car. The spark plugs seem fine, too, but I haven't fully taken them out yet, just the connectors. They were replaced a couple of months ago. If it were the spark plugs, wouldn't I have had stuttering and other symptoms prior to this when driving? Again, I'm not sure. I hope you guys can help.

Thank You very, very much!

The video doesn't want to upload, but here's how the Volts look.

When the key is ON -

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg155/scaled.php?server=155&filename=96374088.jpg&res=landing

When turning the key to start the car -

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg831/scaled.php?server=831&filename=turnpa.jpg&res=landing

Edited August 6, 2012 by TheCrazySwede

[d240zx2]

Get a volt meter. Check voltage across the battery terminals. Should read 12.8 volts. If it doesn't, chances are your battery is either shot or needs a charge.

[TheCrazySwede]

Get a volt meter. Check voltage across the battery terminals. Should read 12.8 volts. If it doesn't, chances are your battery is either shot or needs a charge.

I'll see if I can get my hands on one of those. I uploaded pics of how the Volts look from inside the car

[grantf]

More info please. does the starter crank? Do the usuall, spark, fuel, ect

[Wade Nelson]

Won't crank or won't start?

[TheCrazySwede]

Finally got the video uploaded!

[emptech]

You answered the above questions. Don't worry about the battery voltage, seems to be

cranking just fine.

It isn't firing, either a fuel problem or an ignition problem. Might be easier to check ignition

first. Pull one of the spark plugs, attach the ignition wire to the plug, lay the plug down

on the engine somewhere, like on the intake manifold. Make sure the metal part (threaded)

touches part of the engine. Crank the engine, if you aren't at a good angle, have somebody

else crank the engine. You should see a spark appearing at the gap. If you don't, you have

an ignition problem.

If that's the case, you have to work backwards. Pop the distributor cap off, crank the engine,

see if the rotor is turning.

We can give you more items to check with.

If you wanted to test for a fuel problem, you could squirt some starting fluid (ether) down the

air intake, after removing the hose to the filter. I don't have a 280, so can't describe it.

Try cranking the engine, if it pops, tries to start, could be a fuel problem. From there, clogged

fuel filter, fuel pump problems, clogged fuel lines, empty gas tank, on and on.

Hope this helps.

Jim

[TheCrazySwede]

Thanks emptech! I'll follow your instructions and see where it will get me

I really appreciate the help. I'm new to these things, so it's really nice having clear help and instructions. Quick question, though: Would I have to test each and every spark plug for a spark? If I get a spark with one of them, then it shouldn't be the ignition system or the distributor, right?

Also, is it safe to just take the distributor cap completely off and try and start the motor? Never done it before, so I'm just wondering if there are any precautions I should consider.

One final question: I have a feeling that it might be a fuel issue, so I'm wondering, where am I spraying the starter fluid? I've never used started fluid before, so I'm not sure where it is safe to use. I just don't want to make matters worse just because I wasn't asking the right questions and taking the proper precautions.

Again, thanks a lot for the help. My Z is my world, but I don't know enough about these things to have it running at the moment. Your help means a lot! Thank You!

[grantf]

You could give a little squirt into the afm. Take out the air filter. or take out the brake booster hose and sqrirt a little in from there. But it would be best to hook up a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel filter and fuel rail and see what you get. have you checked for spark yet?

[Zed Head]

I have used the vacuum ports on the intake manifold to apply starting fluid. It doesn't take much. Pull a hose off, squirt just a little fluid in (about a half second burst), put the hose back on, and try to start it. If it's a fuel problem it will start, rev, then die. Make sure that you use real Starting Fluid and not something that seems like it should work because it smells like a petrol derivative.

Electricity for spark passes through the distributor cap so you can't try to start without it on. Maybe you meant crank the engine? You can crank the engine with the cap off, but I think that you should ground the main wire from the coil if you do. Electronic ignition doesn't seem to like it when the spark has no where to go.

[Wade Nelson]

I Make sure that you use real Starting Fluid and not something that seems like it should work because it smells like a petrol derivative.

.

I've started cars on everything from ether to brake cleaner to, in desperation, WD-40.

I drew the line at spray paint, .

Hairspray (AquaNet) and Lysol should work too, as that's what we charged our potato cannon, and flamethrower with, respectively.

And to answer the OP's question, yes, it is 100% safe to crank the engine with the distributor cap removed. Just don't leave it hanging where the fan is going to catch it.

I always START with the ether and check spark IF ether fails to give me a running engine. Time is money and a squirt of ether takes 10 seconds. Replacing a torn spark plug boot takes a trip to the parts store.

After my 2nd or 3rd "electrocution" by a GM HEI ignition (40,000+ Volts) I broke down and bought a spark tester. Those brain cells are never coming back.

Edited August 7, 2012 by Wade Nelson

[TheCrazySwede]

My internet was down for a while, glad to see I've got some great guys helping me out! I'm getting the starter fluid today to see if it will start. To my understanding, I just remove the air filter and spray down into the intake? I hope it starts so that I know what the problem is, at least.

Thank You Gentlemen!