Clutch goes to floor, not engaging.

[mgood]

I was at a car show this weekend and driving back the car was getting harder and harder to put into gear. I finally could not get into gear so I coasted to a store/ gas station.

I had some looked at the operating cylinder as I pushed the clutch and nothing happened. I checked the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder and it was full but very black looking. The clutch master is not leaking.

I have a 11/75 - 76 280Z and was wondering if I should replace the clutch master cylinder or get a repair kit to fix the one I have? If the repair kit where can I get one?

I see there are 6 different ones listed on Rock Auto for my car. Not sure which one to get.

For the operating cylinder there is a bleeder screw, should I get a speedbleeder for there when I change the Master? What size if I get one? This way I can do all the work my self. I have speedbleeders on all the breaks and they are great.

thanks for any help Michael

[Kurbycar32]

I had a similar problem from the car sitting for years before i purchased it. My inital thought was also to buy some rebuild kits but at the Kragen/Oriley here in town the complete parts were so cheap i just bought them pre done. If i remember correctly the master cylinder was about 22 bucks, the slave was 12. I remember thinking that i replaced the entire system for about 40 bucks. Instead of a speedbleeder i just had my wife push the clutch pedal. Its not something that gets adjusted often so i didnt consider a speedbleeder

Edited August 13, 2012 by Kurbycar32

[5thhorsemann]

A quick and easy test, put a plug in the master cylinder output fitting and see if you can depress the peddal, it should not go to the floor. DO NOT put too much pressure on the peddal or you will blow a good gylinder.

[Bruce Palmer]

My success with kits in worn bores isn't that good. Pitted bores that wore out that last set of seals will also wear out a new set of seals.

That dirty fluid you are looking at should have been used to flush that system a long time ago. All hydraulics should be rejuvinated with fresh fluid like every year whether in use or sitting. It draws moisture, corrupts the system and leads to premature system failure such as you describe "trying desperately to get home".....

"The clutch master is not leaking" ---- It has lost the ability to push fluid. The fluid is just excaping around the worn seal and staying where it is.

As far as help with replacement parts, check a local NAPA and see what their lists show. I doubt NISSAN had six cylinders in total let alone six choices for that one model.....

[Arne]

I'm with Bruce - I've never had long-term success rebuilding clutch hydraulics. By the time they fail, the cylinder bores are generally trash.

I'd also recommend not trying to do only a piece at a time. Experience has also shown me that putting a nice, new master in with an old slave will generally lead to failure of the slave in short order. I'd recommend getting a new master, new slave, and a new pressure hose all at once. Do it once and be done with it.

[olzed]

The black looking fluid is most likely caused by rust in the slave cylinder.

[superj243]

Same thing happened to me. Just replace the the slave cylinder. very simple fix

[mgood]

Thanks for the input, ordered all three parts from Black Dragon. Maybe this weekend I can get back on the road.

[mgood]

I received all three parts today. Total for all three parts and shipping was $81. See picture, planning on do the work this Saturday.

[zKars]

Here's hoping these are not remanufactured hydraulics with old problems left inside.

Don't forget your copper crush washer on the slave to hose connection! There's one in the box, isn't there? You can always use the old one if need be, shame if its not new.

Edited August 16, 2012 by zKars

[olzed]

Good to see you have an alluminium slave. The last one I bought here was cast iron of some sort.

[Zed Head]

I've seen it recommended and I've done it myself - take the cylinders apart before installation and make sure there's no grit left inside from manufacturing. If you run your finger inside and it comes out gray and sparkly, rinse the moving parts with brake fluid before putting back together. I had a slave cylinder fail in about 6 months and the replacement from the guarantee (poor quality replacement parts for life!) was full of honing grit. It's been on for about a year with no problems. I just had to finish the factory's job for them.