Clutch goes to floor, not engaging.

[mgood]

zKars no copper washer. I will see if I can get one form a auto parts place.

Zed Head I will look into checking the interiors of the parts, thanks for the heads up.

[LeonV]

Have fun with the clutch master, *maniacal laugh*.

[Zed Head]

Have fun with the clutch master, *maniacal laugh*.

Hmmm....not sure what this means but I should add that I did not take my master cylinder apart. Only the slave. Maybe the master cylinder is problematic.

[LeonV]

Hmmm....not sure what this means but I should add that I did not take my master cylinder apart. Only the slave. Maybe the master cylinder is problematic.

I speak of installation. Had to use long needle-nose pliers to even get to the clevis and cotter pin. Very little space to reach the fasteners on the interior side as well.

[jcb]

mgood, Just my experience but for parts like you ordered I find Rock Auto Parts has good quality and great prices. Check em out next time. JB

[Bonzi Lon]

Taking the seat out helps with installation. I've used a hook shaped wire to remove the clevis pin, then I found a long set of needle nose plyers, they help in working the solid pin in and out of the clevis. A set of long right angle needle nose helped in putting the clevis pin back into that little hole, and to push the pin in or out of the clevis. In other words, its like watch & clock making, use the tools as your fingers.

Bonzi Lon

[Robert Stubbe]

I ordered all new clutch hydraulic parts from Rock Auto. I was impressed with the parts and prices. However, I found one slight problem. The rod on the clutch master was too short by about 1/2 inch and would not adjust to the correct length to allow the pedal to generate a full stroke, sufficient to disengage the clutch. What I ended up doing was getting an M8 coupling nut and a short M8 bolt from my local Ace Hardware. I threaded the bolt into the pedal attachment and tightened the coupling nut to it. Then I threaded the clutch master rod into the other end of the coupling nut and adjusted the total length to reach the properly adjusted clutch pedal. Clutch works beatifully now.

mgood, Just my experience but for parts like you ordered I find Rock Auto Parts has good quality and great prices. Check em out next time. JB

[Cali71z]

Sorry to jump in like this! I need Help! I've done researching but can not fix my problem! I have a 71 240z with a 280z 5 speed tran. I've parked the car for couple of days and decided to take it for a drive. I came home and park the car for a few hours and jump in the car again but this time I can't shift to any gear while the car's running. I turn off the car and it shift perfect. I have check for leaks, check Master cylinder, check slave cylinder and when I push the clutch pedal the slave move the clutch fork but still can't shift. Anyone have any suggestion to solve this problem? Thanks in advance!

[mgood]

Here are the old parts next to the new parts and the equipment to repair and do the work.

[skillinp]

Just wanted to point out that you probably don't need the copper washer, the way new slaves are designed is that they taper toward the end so that the hose you screw in fits exactly in place. a washer may end up causing a leak.

Also, you don't need to go to a specialty store for your slave or the hose that you screw into it. I got mine a month ago at my local Napa (I also replaced the clutch at the same time, but that I got online), and I'm sure that most places have similar products stocked. Just bring in the old and they should be able to figure it out if they are a good parts place.

[mgood]

Thanks for the advice, I did use the washer from the old one, no leak. Clutch only has 3K mile on it. everything's all good, car is away for the winter.

[malibud]

also it helps to tape the carter pin to the top of center punch and push it in. justed put the master cylinder in after reading the post . yes take theseat out....