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where does my 75 280 get all 12 v power from????


shupee

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I've done several searches and can't find the answer that a lot of you know. Which plug on the pass side supplies 12 v power to basically the whole car. I have issues and need help. There are several 10 gauge size wires in the main plugs and I need to know which wire/wires should have 12 volts on them. thanks in advance.

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These links might help you out. There are two single wires that supply all power - one is the charge wire from the alternator, the other is the positive wire from the battery. After those two wires the power splits and travels to various places, like the fuse box, the headlights, running lights, etc.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread36494.html

www.xenons30.com/reference

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm

If you don't know where the power wires are, how do you know that you didn't "gut" a "wanted" wire? I always find these situations amusing, like removing emissions "stuff" then having problems with engine operation.

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This isn't rocket science. I thought that I could ask a basic simple question when this time came and get a simple answer ie: 12 volts to 3 wires in the main plug.red and white yadayadayada. I'm on an air card and its a little tough to download some things. I'll figure it out. Thanks

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Did you want a simple answer, or did you want a good answer? You didn't give us much to go on, yet the second response to your post gave you a link to the wiring diagram. You said you gutted the engine bay. To many of us, that means you could have removed critical components, such as fusible links. Without the fusible links, you wouldn't have 12VDC to much of anywhere in the car.

Don't come in with a chip on your shoulder. We want to give you good answers that will prevent you from having more problems down the line.

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You said this - "I have issues and need help." - and got a helpful reply, asking for details so that you could get a specific answer..

You also said this - "Which plug on the pass side supplies 12 v power to basically the whole car." - for which the answer is "there is none".

Edited out some harsh comments -

To be fair, I did make fun of the fact that he tore the wires out of his engine bay without knowing what they were for, which I still think is funny. Just a difference of philosophies on how to get things done. Oh well.

Edited by Zed Head
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I don't have a "chip" on my shoulder. I had hopes for a more Redneck approach rather than an engineer's answer. The correct redneck answer would be just hook them white with red stripe wires to your battree. which is what I did and I'm good.

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If I were wiring up a NEW fusebox I'd run power from either the alternator or the battery B+ terminal, and from a relay providing ignition switched power from either one of those two. I'd use 10 gauge wire.

I'd have a 60 amp "main" fuse on the first feeds. 20 or 30 amp on the ignition relay, depending on what the relay is rated. Use two relays in parallel if I need more switched juice.

So I'd need a 2 or 3-feed fusebox, and fuse my individual various accessories off of one of those feeds, depending on when I wanted the circuit to be active --- always or only when the ignition is on.

I'd suggest you get a factory service manual, see what the stock fusebox is, whether you can recycle it, or go steal a more modern ATC-style fuse fusebox out of some newer vehicle at the junkyard and go from there. I found NAPA's selection of "home-brew" fuseblocks quite limited, and limiting.

If you need more help or advice than that, I suggest you hire an auto electrician.

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I don't have a "chip" on my shoulder. I had hopes for a more Redneck approach rather than an engineer's answer. The correct redneck answer would be just hook them white with red stripe wires to your battree. which is what I did and I'm good.

I don't think any of us would like to hear that you burned your car up because you decided you didn't need a fusible link.

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