I was wondering what the difference was between strut bars versus sway bars? Could I put both on? Or are they the same thing? Would it be practical to put them both? Thanks.

Strut bars join the top of the suspension towers together, either in the engine bay or in the hatch area, or both. They are fitted to take away suspension tower flex and to improve handling.

Your car should have a front sway bar already, but you can fit a larger one. A rear one can be fitted as well. They join left and right side suspension together under the car, by a spring steel bar, to help control the sway you get when cornering.

Edited August 17, 201212 yr by olzed

So struts are on the top, sways are on the bottom.. I think I got it. Is it overkill to put BOTH struts and sways in the front and rear?

Nothing wrong with having both. Adding strut bars would be near the bottom of my list though. Make sure other parts are in good order first such as shocks, springs, ball joints, tie rods, brakes, etc.

Chuck

I found that a larger front sway bar improves handling significantly. A rear sway bar can induce oversteer if not driven precisely.

I found that a larger front sway bar improves handling significantly. A rear sway bar can induce oversteer if not driven precisely.

Exactly. And if you make the front bar too big you'll get understeer. You have to find that balance. Maybe someone can comment on the kits that are sold. I'd imagaine that the bars are matched for good handling?

Chuck

My 71 240Z has front and rear strut bars and a 1 inch front sway bar. I tried a rear sway bar, but as noted above, the propensity to oversteer and just a real "squirrely" feel in the rear led to its removal.

My 71 240Z has front and rear strut bars and a 1 inch front sway bar. I tried a rear sway bar, but as noted above, the propensity to oversteer and just a real "squirrely" feel in the rear led to its removal.

This is good to hear because I've got the MSA sway bars front and back I havn't installed yet, looks like i'll just be doing the front, the rear requires me to weld the new brackets on from a later car (which I have) but i'll think i'll skip that headache. I'm glad you posted because I would have spent a saturday doing it for nothing.

I installed a sway bar kit from MSA over the winter, both front and rear in my 71 and I love it. I didn't have to weld anything, I just drilled holes in the floor and used the brackets that came with the kit. As for handling, the front bar is bigger than the rear, and the car still understeers when you are off the throttle. But you can kick the rear out with power. I suspect that if you only installed the front bar it would make the stock understeer worse.

But what size is the front MSA bar? It might be bigger than 1" and without the matching rear bar you'll have understeer. My 1972 240Z race car (ITS class) I think has 1 1/4" front and 7/8" rear and it very well balanced. It's built to ITS specs and is not stock so keep that in mind.

Chuck

Strut tower bars are chassis reinforcement, anti-roll bars are suspension springs. Both help with car handling but anti-roll bars can be too large and reduce the independence of the independent suspension. For a street car where ride is a consideration larger anti-roll bars and softer springs are good compromise. For a track car smaller anti-roll bars and stiffer springs will give better lap times. And the S30 chassis, with spring rates under 300 lb. in. really needs a rear anti-roll bar to balance the chassis. A lot of people confuse a neutral handling car with an over steering car. A neutral handling car will be more sensitive to the throttle, which is what you want in a neutral handling car and a lot of folks are not used to that. If you lift off the throttle in a corner, the rear of the car should step out in a good handling car.

Yes, and it will do that RIGHT NOW! No warning at all.