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Newbie needs help with 12/70 Series I 240z


djwarner

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Just bought my first 240z, 1971 series I with 167K miles on original engine.

First look shows the front end sitting high. Measuring heights at the center of the bumpers show the front about 1.5" high.

Struts still dampen without overshoot.

My first plan of action is to replace suspension bushings as the old ones are hard as a rock and cracked.

While I have some maintenance records, I haven't found any records on servicing the struts.

Any suggestions on how to restore the original height?

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Congrats on your purchase DJ and welcome to the forum. There could be several reasons why the front is sitting high. The rear shocks could be shot and springs sagging causing it to sit nose high. To properly troubleshoot it I would pull the wheels, inspect everything which it sounds like you have done some of that already, and see what is in there. Could be mismatch springs or something else. Some pics are always good too. If the bushings are shot and you plan to replace them that will give you a good opportunity to investigate the issue and uncover any other issues as well.

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Glad to oblige. VIN HLS30-17574, L24-021025, automatic with total mileage of 168K. California car, first owner moved it to Roanoake, VA kept it until 2009 though it sat for several years before selling. Next owner, garaged it in Ohio, got it up and running again until he sold it to me this week. Only rust problem was in the passenger rear wheel well.

Engine is original, never overhauled, has dual weber carbs, missing air pump, has new electronic distributor, alternator, voltage regualtor battery, plugs and wires.

Body was originally white with blue interior. Last owner painted car gray metallic (cheap overspray). Interior has new carpet and black seat covers, otherwise original blue.

Previous owner drove it until last winter where sat garaged until putting it up for sale.

I drove the car home, a trip of about 1,000 miles averaging 73 mph and getting 28 mpg. Only downside was I burned 4 quarts of oil. Since getting it home, I've been looking it over and the body is in better shape than I'd hoped. The car has never seen salt and the under battery area looks sound.

I was looking for a condition 4 car that could be upgraded to a condition 3 reasonably. After looking at the body, I wondering if I should be aiming a little higher. We've all heard about the guys who put more money into restore their cars than what they bring when they're sold. Being recently retired, I don't have that luxury.

This was definitely a "bucket list" purchase for me. I've been in love with the 240z since I saw my first one in 1970 while I was stationed at Edwards AFB and living in Rosamound CA. Lived very close to the Bob Bondurant driving school.

That first 240z was Racing Green with a Ginger interior. Wife and I looked at the car, looked at each other, then at our 15 month old daughter. We looked back at each other and just sighed.

Edited by djwarner
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DJ,

Welcome to the family! Blue interiors were rare. Don't change the interior. Sounds like the previous owner replaced the seat covers with black. Not sure if you can still find reproduction seat covers in blue but if you can, that is something I would highly recommend. Also I am partial to white Z's so if you repaint the car it would look awesome and increase it's value to return it to the stock original color.

I am doing a concourse restoration on my 72 240Z which was an original California car. trust me, you can spend a lot on a restoration depending on how far you want to take the car. What matters most is how much you enjoy owning this Z. Let you gut and heart dictate how much you want to spend. If it brings you joy and satisfaction and you plan to keep the car, go for it. Also if you are able to do most of the work yourself, you will save a ton of money that way. Be sure to become familiar with the search function on this site. You will find almost every topic you can think of by doing a search.

Good luck with your new Z and please post some pictures!

Edited by mgmoreau
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Hi DJ.

Does your new toy smoke on the overun, like when you accelerate after coasting down hill. Could be valve guide seals, which in an engine of that mileage will surely need replacing. If the engine is running strong otherwise, then this could well be the reason for using oil.

Valve guide seals can be replaced withought removing the head.

I replaced mine and went from 1.5 litres per 1000km to virtually zilch.

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Sounds interesting. How did you remove the old guides without removing the head? Then how did you press in the new guides? Did you have to rotate the crank to hold the valves against the piston top, Etc.

On light aircraft engines, the valve guides would build up coke and eventually cause the valve to seize. Some mechanics could ream the guide out without removing the cylinder head by allowing the valve to fall into the combustion chamber and then finessing the valve back out after the reaming was completed.

My engine manual says is should take two tons of pressure from the cylinder side to press the guides out.

Please tell me about your method.

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Read my post again.-- Valve guide SEALS.--- These are small rubber cups that fits over the top of the valve guides, to prevent oil from being sucked past the valve stem. They can indeed be replaced withought removing the head.

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Measuring heights at the center of the bumpers show the front about 1.5" high.

Hi DJ - exactly what is the measurement you are getting at the front bumper? Where did you find the stock height as measured at the front bumper?

If you get over here to the Clearwater area be sure to stop by and say hello!

thanks,

Carl B.

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