Paint thickness?

[grannyknot]

How thick too thick before you have to strip down to bare metal? My car has three layers at the moment.

Thanks,

Chris

[EScanlon]

It depends.... but then you knew that.

What's the condition of the paint?

Are there any chips, cracks, crazing or other imperfections that need to be sanded out?

Are you talking 3 complete paint jobs (primer, color, clear each) or Original, Re-color, and Re-coat with no primer or sealer in between?

The OLD rule of thumb was that if the previous paint job was generally undamaged, you scuffed/sanded it to accept either a sealer/primer (if changing color or type of paint) and then your color. If it was questionable, you D/A'ed it to smooth out the whole car (and if any chips or cracks) and then sealer/primer and color etc.

If you are talking 3 complete paint jobs (primer,color,clear x 3) AND there aren't any problems visible, then I would suggest you at least wet-sand the car completely smooth before you apply more paint, but be very very picky over the condition of the existing paint.

FWIW

E

[grannyknot]

Well the condition of the paint is in very good condition overall, I just can't stand the colour it is now.

There is some bondo on the rockers and around the wheel well but not much as a magnet still adheres. I will still dig through it though just to have a look at what is on the other side.

Thanks E

[grannyknot]

sorry, double post

[5thhorsemann]

You should also consider the chemestry of the new paints as they apply to whats on the car now. The solvents of the newer paints are designed to soften the layer(s) they are applied over as they cure. In other words, the reducers evaporate to atmosphere and leach out into the undercoat to promote adheasion. If you have a really thick area of paint, like in the shugar scoops for instance, the new paints can shrink that old paint and cause it to get waivey, create orange peal or even cause it to crack.

[grannyknot]

5th, now you have me all worried again. I know your right, no one ever regretted stripping down to bare metal.

Had a through look again today at the combined work load of paint prep and removal of multiple layers of undercoat, oil/sand, tar, OEM sound deadening and bad floor pan rust repairs by P/Os. I'm trying to convince myself that $3,000

is a good price to have the entire shell of the car chemically dipped in caustic acid. It removes all paint, oil, rubber, aluminum,rust...everything. You get back steel only. Sending the car out for complete sandblasting would cost just as much and wouldn't get any of the rust that might be hiding in the rockers, sub floors or A and B pillars.

You see, I'm trying to convince myself. But then $3,000 would buy an awful lot of speed and handling.

Still have a couple of months to decide.

Thanks,

Chris

[bpilati]

If there is any bodywork, I'd recommend stripping it down.