Practicality of daily driving a z (and safety)

[JacktheRiffer]

Im planning on taking advanced driving classes and i would attempt to restore the engine as much as possible so i wouldnt be to anxious about dd it. I would add the fuel pump cutoff just in case though.

[zbane]

When I first got my '79 ZX, I did so with the full intention of having it as a small project/weekend car-alas, life has odd ways of changing things, and the car ended up being my sole means of transport for several years. I had no issues driving about 350 miles a week (commuting to/from school and work) in all seasons.

The key (as with ANY vehicle) is maintenance. Starting with a solid vehicle is equally important, though if you've gotten a fixer-upper, you shouldn't have any issues as long as you fix whatever issues you encounter, and work from a pro-active mindset.

[JacktheRiffer]

Good part for me is i already have a daily that i can drive while i fix up a Z and my uncle is a mechanic and will help me restore it if i mow his yard.

[JacktheRiffer]

Quick question: which brakes are more important front or back?

[Stanley]

With some minor tuneing of engine, brakes & suspension, any Z should be able to take off like a rocket, turn & stop on a dime. All good for safety. On the other hand, you're about a foot lower than everything else on the road, so maybe they can't see you. Defensive driving every second. Since getting broadsided about 15 years ago (in a ford turino station wagon-tank, thanks!) I look both ways whenever I go through an intersection. WOT a lot so watch for police. When it's bumper to bumper at 90 mph on the freeway, I'm glad as hell I've got a car that responds.

[EScanlon]

By the nature of the questions you've been asking, I'd hazard a guess that you're hoping this will be an inexpensive endeavour.

That will depend on how good a base car you are able to obtain.

If you find a barn find, that hasn't run in 25 years.... it ain't gonna be cheap, nor quick. Just getting it running is going to take up a bunch of your time and money.... without dealing with broken items or items that must be replaced.

If you are able to find a good and currently operating well car... then it will be quicker, but hard to say as to how cheap. It will depend on the condition and what maintenance has been applied and what is still needed.

If it's a fixer upper: between Fast, Correct and Cheap... pick two. The one you don't pick is what it definitely WON'T be.

But to address your need for safety over and above a rollbar, you might want to consider another car entirely. As has been said, 40+ year old build technology against current robot assembly processes that were computer designed.... and then add that the steel wasn't the thickest, nor rust-proofed well and the car may not have had the easiest of uses... Get a newer car.

Bluntly, with the size and weight of the current vehicles on the road.... you're better off in a vehicle of commensurate size and weight.

Anything else and your safety factor comes down... in their favor. i.e. not good for you.

Even a Mini-Cooper is clocking in at well past 2500 pounds... and that's without passengers. Toss in your typical overweight soccer mama and you can add another couple of hundred pounds.

If all that doesn't scare you, then you can adress your own driving skills. From what clues you've given, you're a relatively young person, as such your driving experience is just beginning to happen. If, and it's a big IF, you've been driving since your teenage years, chances are that you've only been exposed to the mildest of driving hazards out there. And those... using a relatively newer design vehicle.

I'm not telling you to NOT like or own a Z, I'm saying that you need to be realistic as to what you are considering.

2¢

E

[5thhorsemann]

Quick question: which brakes are more important front or back?

If you have to ask this question, you will need to take a beginner driving course before you daily drive anything. Do us all a favor and stay out of sportscars for a few years.

[JacktheRiffer]

Im looking now as the Z being more of a project/fun car as I just got offered a prius for my daily driver...so now I can afford to do the Z right and not worry about safety as much.

[steve91tt]

I've 15000 miles of daily driving in my stock 240Z for a couple of years now. I agree with the posts above. If the car is in great shape it can brake handle and accelerate like a modern car. Safety is an issue however. I'd stay away from a roll cage in a street car. There is not a lot of head room in these cars. Keeping the bars far enough away from your head so that you would not need a helmet to drive it could be an issue. If you get in an accident your head is going to move around quite a bit. If it hits the roll cage very bad things can happen. Google "driving a caged car without a helmet". You might be surprised what you find.

[Bruce Palmer]

Here's one thing I did to help take the stress out of making my 510 wagon, which is daily driven, a clearer target for the average dummy out there, was I installed a third brake light. I found a light out of a mid 80's Subaru wagon and installed it with a "Back off" module that the motorcycle shops sell. The module flashes steady, then three "one two three" flashes three times then cycles again. I watch people in the mirror and have more than once seen their front end dip when they hit the brakes when the module starts flashing. It's an attention grabber and I know has saved me from getting rear ended more than once.

I would highly recommend you guys hit the wrecking yards looking for a third brake light out of a "something" that will match up with that back deck glass and come up with some bracketry for a sanitary mount to "Git 'er Dun".

Yeh, start a finder contest among y'all to see who can come up with the best junk yard version. The winner could have his name put on it as say "The John Smith third Brake Light"...... I see fame and fortune ahead....

[John Coffey]

Four point roll bar, welded in subframe connectors, upgraded seat from any car made after 1995 or a FIA approved race seat, Schroth 4 point ASM harness, upgraded seat mounts, replace all the rubber lines running to the fuel tank including the vent lines, complete suspension and brake rebuild, replace all the fuel lines in the engine compartment, and a general refresh of the car.

[Bruce Palmer]

Four point roll bar, welded in subframe connectors, upgraded seat from any car made after 1995 or a FIA approved race seat, Schroth 4 point ASM harness, upgraded seat mounts, replace all the rubber lines running to the fuel tank including the vent lines, complete suspension and brake rebuild, replace all the fuel lines in the engine compartment, and a general refresh of the car.

Coupled with everything that has been offered up here, none will be worth spit unless you are willing to play the "be aware of what's going on around you" and be prepared to drive your way out of approaching danger. The more preciselly the car handles, the better, when you need to take evasive action.