Introduction and a few questions

[240 Tom]

Hi,

New guy here from Jersey with a 71 240 I bought a few months ago, I'm the second owner. I have a few questions that I hope someone can help with. I’m far from a mechanic and haven’t wrenched on anything in years but I can still tell the difference between a hammer and screwdriver. I owned three 240’s and a 260 back in high school between 1977-79. I rebuilt one of the engines back then (new rings and bearings) and it even ran after I was done. I also vividly recall almost having my head taken off when changing the rear struts when a compressed spring shot out of the crank-type spring compressor.

About the car...I bought it from CA and it has 146,000 miles running the original matching numbers block, E31 head, original carbs and air pump. Car has A/C that is not blowing cold although the compressor does kick on (maybe only needs a charge?). Body is in OK condition with some minimal rust starting to bubble in the usual places on the front fenders and a bit around the forward edge of the rear wheel wells, frame looks really solid. There was an old re-spray on the hood/front fenders and hatch that is now starting to crack and flake. Car has the common American Racing slotted rims with new Yokohama 195/70R-14. Inside is very decent with everything working except the clock but unfortunately has an aftermarket radio. In going through the car the only neat finds were the original shoulder belts still in original plastic and the original unused spare. The original owner bought it for his 50th birthday and drove all the miles himself, parking it in his garage about 10 years ago. After the old-timer started losing it his wife sold the car to a local dealer (he never registered it so I’m technically second owner) who in turn brought it to his mechanic who did enough to get it running and saleable for a quick flip. Work included new:

Radiator, radiator hoses, cap, and thermostat

Rear brakes including lining and cylinders

Master brake cylinder

Water pump

Points and condenser

Battery

Tires

After the car arrived and driving it about 20 miles the clutch master cylinder went so I changed that and the slave cylinder. A horrible gas smell in the car was tracked to a broken nipple on the plastic fuel recovery tank (found a good used one), and then the unbelievable oily exhausty stench that damn near asphyxiated me was tracked to a leaking rear trans seal where the trans fluid was dripping onto the exhaust pipe with the resulting fumes going straight up through the completely shot inner shift boot.

There’s still a lot to do… the u-joints don’t sound too great, rear struts are in my future, the weatherstipping and every other piece of rubber is shot and there’s a ton of play in the transmission linkage making third a little hard to find when it’s cold.

Anyway…after putting about 1000 miles on the car here are my questions:

1. Car also has a rough idle and stumbles badly at low RPMs. I need to tach it to about 2000 to shift or it starts to buck. Car runs well once over 2000 but stops pulling at about 5000. I seem to recall my old Z’s pulling to about 6000 RPMs. Any suggestions on where to look would be greatly appreciated.

2. All of my previous cars had the air pump already removed...what are the components on the carb balance shaft to disconnect if I want to remove this one

2. Groaning noise coming from front suspension after backing up and turning, and then turning back to straight to go forward.

3. Where can I get the little plastic “T” in the wiper washer line where it branches off for the driver’s side squirter? I also need the whole metal squirter assembly that feeds into the cowl after I broke mine trying to get the hose off.

4. Are Yokohama 195/70R-14 the right size? Seems to take way more effort to turn this car at slow speeds then I remember…or was I just a lot younger then???

Thanks for any help!

~ Tom

Edited September 20, 2012 by 240 Tom

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Congrats Tom, that looks so much like my car when I first got it, it is crazy. Well at least under the hood. I had that same york compressor and control kit on my center console. Mine stopped working shortly after I got the car as well, and I just yanked it. Some would say in houston that was not a good idea, but I really do not miss it.

First up I would recommend a complete tune up. Change out/check the points, put in new plugs, and make sure the timing is spot on. Should be 5 deg BTDC at idle. Then you are going to want to check for any vacuum leaks. You only have a handful of hoses that could be causing a leak. Next you are probably going to want to make sure you are getting fuel to the SU's. After that you are getting into more SU tuning aspects. Make sure you are getting fuel and spark then tackle the carbs LAST.

Your groaning sounds like you may have a tire rubbing on the OEM body work. Your tire sizes are not large, but I had the same groaning and it was a rubbing tire when I backed up. I bought some universal T's to redo all the hoses from my squirter bottle to my nozzles.

[Gary in NJ]

Tom, where in northern Jersey are you? I'm in Warren county and would be glad to help you sort out the car.

[psdenno]

Welcome to the Group! Always good to see another '71 being put back on the road. You might also want to change the spark plug wires if they have a few years on them. As mentioned, "T"s for the washer are available at most auto parts stores and hardware stores. The squirter assembly is a junk yard piece or may be available from someone in our Group who is parting out a Z. If the washer fluid hose is bad, you can use aquarium tubing available at WalMart for a couple bucks.

It looks like you have a good clean Z to start with from the pictures. I had the same AC unit and replaced it with a modern kit a few years ago.

Dennis