Following up on two threads from the past few months:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46932.html

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46662.html

Quick Recap: Transmission grinds when I start to put it in gear. I've replaced:

- Replaced Clutch Master Cylinder

- Replaced Clutch Slave Cylinder

- Replaced Entire Clutch Kit

- Bled System

Ensured proper travel at the Slave Cylinder. Ensured the Master Clinder is fully extended. If I put it in gear and start it (with a push) I can go around the block in gear, just can't shift (obviously).

So I'm totally out of ideas. I can't imagine why else the clutch wouldn't engage. The only saving grace is that I'm swapping the motor / transmission in the next month or two, it's just frustrating to not have gotten this thing moving after so long. Rebuilt those #%*& DGV carbs for no reason...

My guess is that you have the wrong length collar. I can't think of anything else that it could be.

Chuck

Could be, Chuck. It's an L24 block, a 240z bell housing, and complete 240z clutch kit, so I'd hope it's all "correct" but clearly something isn't.

I have a bunch of spare collars of different lengths if you want to try one.

Chuck

Could be, Chuck. It's an L24 block, a 240z bell housing, and complete 240z clutch kit, so I'd hope it's all "correct" but clearly something isn't.

In my limited experience - there is no such thing as a "240Z clutch kit". The original Pressure Plates that came in the 70/73 240Z's from the Factory were thicker than the later 280Z Pressure Plates. In the past 10 years, I've never received a new Pressure Plate that was the same thickness as the original factory Pressure Plates that came in the 240Z's when they were produced.

No matter if you "order" a 240Z Pressure Plate or not - you most likely won't get one. What you will get is the newer replacement parts - which are in fact the thinner 280Z pressure plates.

In that case - you have to get a 280Z or 280ZX Throwout Bearing Collar.

The problem you describe sounds like you put the old 240Z Throwout Bearing Collar - in with a newer style -ie thinner - Pressure Plate.

Question: Did You Keep The Old Pressure Plate Handy? If so - set it side by side on a flat surface and see if it is the same height as the new one - when you pull the new one out. Measure the distance between the flat surface and the top of the pressure plate "fingers".

Of course - another cause for the problem you describe -is that the Clutch Disk can bond itself to the flywheel with Rust - if that car has been sitting without being driven for months and months.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Edited October 2, 201212 yr by Carl Beck

Just curious how high does your engine idle?

Carl, Chuck, Thanks for the replies.

Question: Did You Keep The Old Pressure Plate Handy?

Yes, I certainly did. I'll compare them the next (third... [groan]) time I remove the transmission. Frustrating to think I bought a kit and it wouldn't work, but I suppose when it's not from Nissan, it wouldn't be guaranteed anyway.

Of course - another cause for the problem you describe -is that the Clutch Disk can bond itself to the flywheel with Rust...

This was my first thought; one of the above referenced threads documents my attempt to free that. The first time I dropped the transmission, I was looking for this rust but it wasn't there. The new parts have only been in for about 3-4 weeks.

Chuck - I may need to take you up on this; but first I need to see if the new transmission has all the parts. I appreciate the offer and will keep it in mind going forward.

Engine idles around 1k; I still need to fine-tune the carbs idle. Was interested in getting it moving first. If anyone wants some DGVs let me know. They'll be obsolete sometime this winter. This has been a giant lesson in humility, that's for sure.