Jump to content

Featured Replies

Yes, access is greatly eased by removing the kick panel, glove box, and taking the two bolts out securing the connector block. Remember, the TOP of the glove box folds down enabling removal after you get the two pins out of their holes in the lower part. After that it's a fight to get it past the lock striker.

It's diagrammed on page EF & EC 104 in the FSM, 1983 manual.

On mine the FP relay was green, and newer, possibly having been replaced once before.


Here's a pic: FP relay is the green one.

I'm still battling a hard start situation on this vehicle. The other morning (cold out) the fuel pump didn't seem to kick in until I'd cranked over 60 seconds when suddenly I heard a click and that familiar humm. So I've wired in a failsafe switch to run the fuel pump, if the pump is beginning to fail, the switch will allow me to know that for sure. I suspected burned points in the relay but after cutting it open, they looked fine.

(That's AFTER 40 minutes getting access to it...)

At this point I'm suspecting either a leaking (new) injector, or the ball (check) valve in the fuel pump allowing fuel to leak back out of the rail. Boy am I frustrated after all the work I've done. The one-after-another problems on this Z car are getting close to the final straw on this camel's back. Christ I've replaced half the car!

post-26864-14150820710402_thumb.jpg

post-26864-14150820711103_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.