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Heater fan (blower) does not work...


Topz

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Last sunday the heater fan (blower) stopped working, all suddenly. (240z, 7/71)

Have checked all the fuses, both in the fusebox and the in-line fuses and they are all working.

There is no power on the switch, and there is no power on either sides of the in-line fuses (should be on one side if the fuse where blown).

So...the question is, where do i find the main power wiring to the heatersystem ?, can`t find it in any wiring diagrams ( the heater section is not there at all!!).

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According to my wiring diagram (you are right it is missing from some diagrams) it comes off the LR (Blue Red wire coming off the ignition switch, goes through a 30A in line fuse. It looks like the switch itself is on the ground side of things. In my car there is a air wound resistor pack in the air flow at the right hand side of the blower box. You might also want to check the two in-line connectors about six inches from where the wires come out of the blower motor. I had a bit of an intermittent on one of those connectors once.

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Careful... while that diagram may say Basic Model S30 for USA, there are a few items that did NOT show up on the USA model, and items that are questionable.

The US basic S30 did NOT have a Passing Light Relay in it's headlight circuitry.

It did not have dual license plate lamps

It did not have a Thermo Switch Electric Fan in the engine compartment.

Lastly, it only had ONE Heater Fan, not two.

Additionally, that wiring diagram shows the provisions for the AT Kick Down Switch and interlocks, but does not show the Dual Point Dizzy.

FYI

E

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I'm encountering the same problem on my 76 280Z, does anyone have the same pics? I took at the diagram, but it's done in a weird way, seems like certain wires change color in between plugs, and the junction plugs are kinda confusing. My light still lights up for the control panel though, and I checked for power at the fuses (which it has).

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I found mine, the fuse I have (20a) is a bit too long. After removing the wiring, center console, and finisher plate and looking at the wiring, I found I had no power at the blower motor. I traced it back to the fuse, which at that point had no power. I figured it would be corrosion on the fuse box, anyway, checked power at the base of the fuse, and there was power. The moment my test light touched the other end of the fuse, the blower came on.

So yeah, my problem is because the fuse is too long, I moved it back a hair and it's been working fine.

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