I recently did mine so here's some links: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45883.html. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45676.html. It's not as bad as I first thought but you need to get everything together before you start, kinda quick on all the steps. Then make sure and put a Fram G-3 clear plastic fuel filter right out of the tank, search Fram G-3 and you'll find lots of info. You can do it! Blue's tips on the PLOP! are great.

It's best to replace the filters when you redo the system. As long as the fuel pump had a good filter in front of it, you shouldn't have to replace it. Your symptoms of running and non-running are exactly the same as mine. You can imagine the fuel pickup line inside of the tank as a thin straw. The suction from the fuel pump will eventually pick up any rust scales and trash at the bottom and clog up. The car starves for fuel and dies at this point. Once the suction from the pump is gone, the sediment falls back to the bottom of the tank and the whole process will start back over.

Chase

I used the POR-15 system on my 76 and it worked well. Make sure you have dry weather if you are working outside. I believe the entire process takes about 3-4 days.

Check the condition of all the fuel hoses (may as well replace them), filler tube, and sending unit. The filler tube for the 76 280 is getting harder to come by as well as the sending unit (at least at a reasonable price). At least replace the fuel tank sending unit gasket.

There are also companies that can do the work for you: gastankrenu.com and gas-tank.com.

Good luck and have fun!

Dave Ruiz

Here's some white smoke inside the vehicle.

No more smoking in my car (new carpet and dumped the tobacco). So if You wish to partake please step out side the vehicle. Here in Seattle there will be no repercussions if someone is j-walking (policy is that j-walking is to be enforced before described inhalation).

A radiator repair shop is the preferred vendor for this. Cost should be between 130 to 200. Be careful about draining the old gas, be sure to put into proper containers. It would be a good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy.

I would gladly pay 200; however, my local shop wants 500. I will be shopping around today.

Plan on draining gas this evening.

DIY:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/entry755.html

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread19034.html

http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/cleaning_fuel_tank_702276.0.html

http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/por-15_sealing_tank_702326.0.html

http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/muriatic_acid_is_your_friend_700625.15.html

Gas drained and beginning to drop tank. Following guide from "Z tech tips" Gas tank removal. Will post picks if possible of inside of tank. Some rust particles in gas when drained.

Any words of wisdom at this point?

Spend some time making sure I was jacking up the car properly.

Be extra careful not to tear any hidden hoses. Now would be a good time to replace them if you can.

Chase

I noticed that the instructions did not include removing any hoses prior to dropping tank, other than fill tube screws. I have not really looked that closely but is that possible.

Tank will be down tonight and I will attempt to take some photo's. The 4 screws for the side shield were difficult to remove and about the only way I could get to the passenger side strap. I am going to look at removing some of the hoses/tubes prior to finishing the last couple turns on the last strap.

Not sure once the tank is down exactly what I am going to do.

OK, need a little help. I have removed both straps and both gas lines. I was not able to remove the filler tube. One of the previous posts somewhere said that the tank could be dropped without removing the filler tube.

Comments? I can not get the tank to drop and cannot get the filler tube off.

Help. Something else holding the tank up?