1977 280Z Fuel Pump Problems? Kind of a longish story.

[azuka]

Well.... I'm back but not sure what's going on. I checked fuses and found one that was bad. Replaced that. Checked all fuses all were good. Checked fusible links. All good. Checked fuses again. All good.

Then I started it up. Still using the jury-rigged connection to the fuel pump. So anyway. The car starts runs for about 3 seconds then dies. I did that a number of times. I noticed though that there was smoke coming from the starter some of the times when I started it, especially at first. Then, I couldn't turn it over. So I get my van and jump the batteries. Able to turn it over and start it but only one time. After that, the car won't do a thing. The familiar hum as the fuel pump turns on when I turn the ignition key to ON wouldn't go. Something VERY weird here and I can't figure it out. I re-checked the fuses, all good.

My only viable theory is that the starter is bad or almost dead and it is sucking up all the juice. So I think I'm going to replace the starter regardless, and go from there. I don't believe that replacing the starter will solve the running issue, but I think it needs to be done. I'll let things cool down for awhile and try to restart the car again and see if a cold starter will work differently.

Also, during this time, I swapped out the ECU's. After I made the switch, the car fired up one time, but now nothing.

Not too happy with things at the moment. Seems like I make progress, than go backwards.

[Zed Head]

I'm sure that you realize this already, but your knowledge of automobiles is not much. You have a jury-rigged fuel pump, a jury-rigged "sensor" to stop the high idle speed and smoke coming from a part that should only get power when the key is turned to Start. You're changing parts and getting ready to change more but don't have a good reason why. It looks like you're testing things by looking and touching, I don't see any meter readings. I don't see any signs that you're really making any progress, I wouldn't be surprised if your next post said "problem solved , the car burned to the ground". You have a serious dilemma, I would spend your free time trying to find a good mechanic or getting a meter and learning how to use it. Sorry, but you really are in danger of destroying the car.

[EuroDat]

What is the voltage when cranking the motor. Use a multimeter to read battery voltage at the battery terminal posts. It should be at least 9 volts and with a jumper cable to another car even higher. If it drops below that, then your starter is pulling to much current and is probably defect or your engine is seized.

I pursume the engine turns freely and has not ran out of oil or something like that.

[EuroDat]

I wouldn't be surprised if your next post said "problem solved , the car burned to the ground".

Just seen Zed's post and I tend to agree. Chaos is what springs to mind. Please dont take it wrong, but I get the feeling your just started learning brain surgery and the patient is already on the operating table, so to speak.

I would be carefull changing parts from your good Z. You could damage something making both cars undrivable.

Like Zed said, I dont see any readings. Are you using a multimeter? Without a multimeter its hard to check if electrical things are working correctly.

[azuka]

I'm also suspicious that when the mobile mechanic replaced my fuel line, it may have disturbed some debris in the fuel tank and is now partially blocking the fuel filter. I'm thinking that replacing the fuel filter and the starter MAY put things in good order.

[EuroDat]

You seem to have so many problems and checking everything at once that its hard for us follow whats happening in this thread.

Before changing the fuel filter I would run a quick test. Use the FSM to find out were things are located.

- Disconnect the fuel line to the cold start injector and run a hose into a one gallon bucket.

- Use a medium sized screwdriver to hold the AFM open. You can get to it via the air cleaner.

- Turn the ignition key to ON (do not start the car) and collect the fuel. You should get around one gallon of fuel in two minutes.

If you don't get approx one gallon in two minutes then change the filter.

If you dont get anything. Check the voltage at the pump. No voltage dubble chack AFM is pushed open. Voltage ok, then do the flow test at the pump and go from there back to the filter.

PS: Buy a multimeter. I still dont see any readings. You really can not test an EFI system without one. And learn how to use it. Google " how to use multimeter" you will find plenty of site to help you.

Goodluck, Chas

Edited December 16, 2012 by EuroDat
PS