Help: Seized brake line fittings

[Hardway]

So I have moved to the rear of my 240z to replace the rubber line and wheel cylinder and it appears that no brake work has EVER been done on it since new. I am trying to break the hard line fittings loose using my 10mm line wrench. I soaked the fittings in PB Blaster penetrating fluid and could get a good grip on them with my wrench since they have never been messed with but with only a fair amount of strength the wrech started digging in to the fitting and rounding it off. I stopped, tried heating up the surrounding metal with my propane torch but still no luck. Before I move further does anyone have any ideas on to get these loose? If I needed I could possibly make a new hard line that goes to the wheel cylinder but cannot afford to ruin the fitting on the hardline going to the car as it is super long and would require dropping the rear end and possibly the transmission to get to it. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

[siteunseen]

I put stainless braided lines from the hard line to the caliper and the only thing that worked was a small set of Irwin Vise Grips. After you round them off with the 10mm you'll always be able to use the Vise Grips.

[Zed Head]

I used a full-size set of Vise-Grips. File any rounded off metal down to give two nice flats on the nut, clean any oil off of the Vise-Grip jaws and the nut, crank the Vise-Grips down tight, heat the metal around the nut with the torch, and apply rotation. If the Vise-Grips start to slip at all, start over, re-position and re-tighten the grips. Watch your knuckles when they let go, they can be very tight.

[jonathanrussell]

Once the fittings have been rounded, you are sort of resigned to the vise grip method. With un-rounded fittings, I have found that patient use of Kroil / PB Blaster and then using a Snap-on flare wrench works best. After struggling with a Craftsman flare wrench for years, I finally figured out that, at least for flare wrenches, Snap-on is worth it. They simply fit tighter and don't flex. There may be other brands that work particularly well too but I have not tried other brands.

[tlorber]

Try the vice grips pictured in the link in conjunction with a penetrant. I have never had these NOT work.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IRWIN-Tools-Vise-Grip-4LW-Locking-Wrench-with-Wire-Cutter-/330808104457?pt=Pliers&hash=item4d05b31609&vxp=mtr

[Wade Nelson]

Tip: Vise grips are available in two jaw styles. One for gripping flat things, the other for gripping round (or rounded off things).

You'll have MORE success using a pair with the correct set of jaws.

[EuroDat]

Your last resort will be the vice grips. You can replace the hard line it the fitting is badly damaged.

Its not that hard to remove. Both rear lines connect to a T-piece between the diff and fuel tank. Its thats a bit of fiddling around to get to it, but the T-piece is brass and away form all the road grime, so it should "normally" release without usung vice grips.

I totally agree with the advice above. Sucess really depends on the tools you use. Snap-on is the best imo. The jaws on the vices grips need to bite in hard the first time, otherwise you will just tear all the metal off. Then you really need to replace the hardlines.

Goodluck

[tlorber]

Guys, I think you are missing the point of those Irwin vice grips. They are specifically made for gripping the flat sides of hexagonal nuts. They provide incredible leverage and torque without stripping the nut. They will break the nut before they strip it, in which case it was unusable anyway. And for what it's worth, I don't own any of the company-just the pliers.

[beermanpete]

If you mean this: http://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-tools/the-original-locking-wrenches , then, yes, it should not damage the nut. Regular Vise-Grip pliers will round the hex if it slips. Since this usually a last resort it does not matter too much. I don't use Vise-Grips until I have already ruined the nut with regular wrenches. With the brake line nuts you have to be careful not to collapse the nut since it is hollow, especially if you hope to reuse it.

One thing you might try is use the flare-nut wrench and place the Vise-Grip over the wrench to keep if from expanding while turning the nut. This might help prevent rounding off the corners.

[LeonV]

One thing you might try is use the flare-nut wrench and place the Vise-Grip over the wrench to keep if from expanding while turning the nut. This might help prevent rounding off the corners.

That's exactly what I was going to advise. Do this first, do not resort to vice-grips on the nut right away. It'll make your life easier!

[EuroDat]

It might sound a little stupid:stupid: I know, but are you turning it the right direction? It wont be the first time that has happened. People make that mistake with gearbox shafts because they are left hand threads, but here you are bent over the brake drum and everything is upside down.

Are you also having this much trouble with the hard lines on the backing plate?

[Hardway]

Thanks for all the info guys. I think investing in a 10mm Snap On line wrench might be a good one. Looks like I can pick up one for around $27 on Ebay. I have used the Vise Grip method before, was just curious if there was anything I was missing as it seems like the factory fittings are super soft. I have set of small files that make it easy to work on small hardware in tight places.

Yes, the hard line on the back plate is the one giving me trouble and I am turning them the right way to loosen them, turning to the left when looking at it straight on.