Yes, the hard line on the back plate is the one giving me trouble

that the ones I had all the trouble with. One refused to release, so I cut the line to get it out. Ended up making new lines out of other hard piping I had. I was replacing the wheel cylinders and new SS braided hoses.

Good luck with it

I have used the Vise Grip method before, was just curious if there was anything I was missing as it seems like the factory fittings are super soft.

Maybe one thing. After I soak them with Kroil for a day - then coat them with Kroil - I put a Snap-On line wrench on them - then holding the line wrench under some tension - I smack the other end of the line wrench a swift blow with a brass hammer. Dynamic torque breaks them lose far better than slowly applied torque by hand. If the flair nuts round off - I next go to vice grips and do the same thing.. SMACK!

All these now 40+ year old flair nuts are very soft with age. I'll be ordering the Irwin's myself..

Kano Labs' KROIL - nothing but KROIL...

Good luck,

Carl B.

What Carl just wrote is exactly what I do now that I think about it. I left the "impact" detail out of my post. A little bit of impact works wonders. Sometimes, you can't quite get a hammer in place for a blow, however. When this happens, I simulate it a bit (though not as effective) by turning the snap-on wrench with a quick jerk of a turn....instead of slow. As Carl says, slow doesn't work well.