Making a Wooden Shift Knob

[hls30.com]

Sugar Maple-she same trees maple Syrup comes from.

[geezer]

Thanks for the pics geezer. Your stock knob is certainly much darker than the other OEM knob pictures I've seen. Are you sure it wasn't stained darker than original? Maybe it was completely dunked and is stained on the inside as well making it look like it's the natural wood color?

It appears to be the original natural wood color but being the 4th owner, anything could be possible and I noticed someone did paint the base with aluminum color paint.

I did spin it and removed the scratches starting with 220 grit and progressed to 800 and then a gloss polish. The wood is the same color throughout. Even the hole where the glue remnants were cut away it revealed the same color wood. My best guess, thats the way it was originally. I've seen a few variances in the coloring of these knobs. I believe it is just the nature of wood.

Edited November 15, 2012 by geezer

[Captain Obvious]

geezer, Thanks again for the info. I don't know how deep stain penetrates, but it sure does look like the wood color, doesn't it?

Is your plastic insert split? It looks like a crack along the back top in your pic? I'm thinking for my next knob attempt I'm going to make an insert like that, but I'm going to make mine out of metal. Either aluminum (easier to work with), or stainless (will look more like the original and will stay shiny longer).

hls30.com, Thanks for your info too. I've got a line on a solo retired pin that is just itchin' to be turned into a shift knob...

[240260280z]

Given enough time, I am sure that genius and innovative machinist Bruce could build a better Z from regular house hold items!

Nice stuff! Keep it coming!

[geezer]

...Is your plastic insert split? It looks like a crack along the back top in your pic? I'm thinking for my next knob attempt I'm going to make an insert like that, but I'm going to make mine out of metal. Either aluminum (easier to work with), or stainless (will look more like the original and will stay shiny longer).

Yes, my insert is split. I think more are, than are not. If you get a limited run of inserts made from a suitable metal and consider selling them, put me on the list for one. I'll even send you my split original to use for a dimensional example if you like.

I've even been considering having a shift map button done in aluminum by a local machinist and painting it up. It wouldn't fool anyone but might look nice just the same.

[Captain Obvious]

I've started my second knob attempt. This time I'm going to really trying to recreate the OEM knob.

Step one - Here's my old black knob, and my second knob attempt at the very start :laugh::

Here's what I've got so far. Bowling pin is mounted and first rough cut sizing done:

Hopefully more tomorrow!

Given enough time, I am sure that genius and innovative machinist Bruce could build a better Z from regular house hold items

Yes, given enough time, of course! You, being learned in the field of theoretical math and physics, are surely familiar with The Infinite Monkey Theorem.

I have one thing to say to you... Ooooo! ooooo! Eeeeeeek! Eeeeeeek!

[ninjazombiemaster]

This was discussed in another thread, where the conclusion was made that the buttons are some sort of acrylic. The back is cut with the map pattern, the white parts painted in. The whole backside was then painted black (or green, etc). You may have noticed all of this when you had mine laying around. I'd be willing to let someone cast a mold of mine if they can do it without harm - but its a 4 speed map.

There were two ideas from that thread. One was to take a watch dome, and affix a map to the back. The other, more original method was CNCing a small block of acrylic which would be almost perfectly stock. I'm not sure where they're at on that, but I believe it was the "5 Speed shift knob reproduction" thread, or something like that.

[Captain Obvious]

Progress... I got the rough cut blank trimmed to shape. Here it is compared to my cheap and dirty contour gauge:

And here it is cut off from the rest of the bowling pin:

Tomorrow I'm going to work on the metal base.

ninjazombiemaster, Yeah I remember that thread with the discussion about the shift map. I was looking at yours while it was here and I was considering trying to cast something with it, but I have no idea what I'm doing with that and didn't want to mess anything up.

You know most of this is your fault, right? I was perfectly happy with my black plastic knob until I started messing with yours.

[Captain Obvious]

Got the chance to work on the metal base. Biggest problem is that I didn't make any templates for the base section, and I no longer have an OEM knob in my possession to compare it to, so I'm winging it from memory! Here's a very rough cut testing on the knob to see if it's even close to looking right.

Here's my metal base finished and all polished up. And yes... It's real metal :laugh::

And here's my three knobs all together. I think the base looks acceptable for making it with no template. Haha! Not sure I could do it again, but this one turned out OK:

I still need to apply some finish to the newest knob and figure out what I'm going to do for a shift map. I used to have a knob with a Datsun logo in the center. Anyone have leads on inserts that I might be able to use?

[olzed]

Thats a mighty fine effort Captain.

It motivates me to fire up the old brain cells again, and clean the crap off my lathe.

How far does the threaded section enter into the base of the wood?

[Captain Obvious]

olzed, Thanks! I'm happy with the shape. Now I just have to get the color right.

About the threaded insert? I've got about 25mm (an inch) of threads in there. It's more than I really need for strength, especially since it's metal and not plastic, but that's what I used. My previous inserts were made from brass, but I went with aluminum this time because of the silver color of the base. Here's a shot of the back side of the base where you can see the threaded portion:

And I just like this shot because you can see how shiny the base turned out after polishing. I wasn't expecting it to look that clean, but I think it certainly looks to be a suitable replacement for the chromed plastic original. You can tell what kind of camera I'm using! :

[geezer]

WOW!! Great job!

I was looking for the easiest, most economical way to replace my shift map. I was never very impressed with the longevity of the acrylic stock map buttons that crack so easily, or the milky look of the new ones available so I looked at everything available on Ebay. I found this cheap aluminum knob that has a reasonable facsimilie of the map cut into it. I am going to attempt to reshape it, cut the two circles around the perimeter and then cut the end off creating a new button. Then I will get it powder coated black and paint the inset map white.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180870642618?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Edited November 20, 2012 by geezer