I got a request for a 240Z Rear window for sale, so i thought it might be a good reason to get my small power supply and Multimeter out and check them.

Unfortunately i didn't even need my tools. It was already clear by visually checking them that both window defrosters are toast, even if the glass was OK on both. The resistive threads have oxidated and vanished in large areas:

It even seems like one of them had some kind of burn at one point:

You can't really see it bot some of the threads are almost gone totally and there's only some leftovers from the original glue. Really wonder how that could happen. but it seems to be a common problem.

One of them even had one of the bigger threads loose. I know it's all repairable with stock-on thread wires, but not sure yet how nice i can do it and if it's worth the effort. Either i need a new glass or have it repaired by a pro.

Strange enough i figoured out i have both a vertical and a horizontal wired hatch glass. even if both my cars were built in late 1971. so either they were used longer than mentioned everywere, or it has ben swapped at one point in the past. strange enough the one with the vertical lines (the earlier version)is in way better condition with only one small area damaged and the rest still quite solid...

 Did you check for continuity? I sold one that had continuity but much of what I assume to be protective coating was gone. It looked like the one on pic #2.

My initial plan was to check it with a 12V power supply and measure the falling voltage as explained in the Manual (In my opinion that's the best test)
But after seeing how bad the wires were, i checked the one in picture two with an Ohm-meter and there was no connection.
Didn't measure all the wires and never checked the window with the vertical lines (which i think is easy to repair, sine the wires ares till good). But i think the one with the horizontal wires is beyond an easy fix.
needs full re-wiring and i haven't seen any shop doing it over here so far... and unfortunately companies only sell new windscreens, no hatch windows...
Interesting input however - Thanks!

 

Sometimes you find the coolest things when you don't even search for them. I always thought the "euro" front lip / chin spoiler was cool but it's somehow rare these days to find one and i thought i go the route with the xenon front bumper. However when i was searching for some other parts i accidently stumbled upon a pretty rough looking but still salvageable OEM front spoiler lip. I contacted a few people to confirm it's the real deal and then made the payment. few days later and i could pick it up at the postal office today:

One of the mounting brackets is missing (broken off) and another one seems to have been replaced with a custom made piece over the years. but otherwise it's in quite good shape, as long as the old paint gets removed.

It's made from Urethane rubber so pretty soft and you can bend it like you want

This is another little project that has been under work for a while and is finally completed
A while ago i wanted to re-assemble the transmission crossmember with the new Energy suspension polyurethane bushings. They're stated to fit all 240Z years on their website:

 

However, when i tried to install it, it didn't fit at all... The metal tube was too long to fit inside the outer mounting bracket and had a wrong diameter, the bushings had a completely wrong shape too and didn't fit anywhere....


It was only then i figoured out there are at least three different types of transmission crossmembers and they do not fit the type i got i got:

 

I tried to find a supplier, but they weren't available. But when i asked Jakub Nurzaj from DPAN Europe he immediately told me that he could make a set for me... So i took some measures and we double checked a few things, before the first series went into production.

 

Yesterday i was finally able to pick them up at the postal office and the first look was promising.

 

Here's a comparison between energy bushings (left) and Jakub's bushings (right) the difference is small but i can assure you the ones to the left don't fit at all...

 

So today i was finally able to install them (use some bushing grease!)

 

Fitment is spot on and tight. perfect!
I cannot thank Jakub enough for the work he put into this and i'm happy i could support him. The bushings are now available from Jakub Nurzaj from the DPAN Europe facebook page. Contact him if you need these.

Here's how the crossmember looked before restauration:


And here's the completed, freshly powdercoated transmission crossmember with freshly zinc plated bolts and the NISMO / Kameari Transmission mount. Looking cood. Another Puzzle-piece complete. Thanks again to Jakub for the awesome work!

A while ago i discovered some NOS parts on a german Sales ad website and contact the seller. few days later i got some NOS parts in my mailbox
A 5-speed transmission clutch fork incl the retainer spring:

two drum-brake slave cylinders (keen-eyed readers might note that i got two left-sided items)

And a set of drum-brake hardware:

More parts are on the way from japan currenty. and while waiting, i decided to strip the various layers of old paint from the Euro-chin spoiler with the simple use of some pressurized air and a spatula. before...

at least five layers of different primers and paint:

and here's the result. yeah, still two layers to go, but this one is tuff. even the paint stripper didn't work on this. wonder what it is.. probably have to sand it down by hand.. no hurry though, at least i don't have old paint peeling off from it and messing the storage space now anymore...

Oh, and almost forgot i had all the parts for the doglegs ready since a while but never assembled them...

So did that today, freshly powdercoated doglegs, zinc plated hardware and new Polyurethane bushings. next to a pair of old unrestored doglegs

Sali Nils

Since im trying to reproduce the Euro-chin spoiler (Lip) could you tell me how rigid it is? Is there a metall bar inside or just urethane?

Thanks Marcel

The Tension/Compression rods (what you called doglegs) look great. My only suggestion is that you might consider running a combination of rubber and poly bushings instead of all poly. There have been reports of snapped rods when used with all poly. The belief is that the poly is too stiff and eventually snaps the rods and many people (myself included) run poly bushings on the front side of the bar, but run rubber on the back side.

2 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

The Tension/Compression rods (what you called doglegs) look great. My only suggestion is that you might consider running a combination of rubber and poly bushings instead of all poly. There have been reports of snapped rods when used with all poly. The belief is that the poly is too stiff and eventually snaps the rods and many people (myself included) run poly bushings on the front side of the bar, but run rubber on the back side.

Thanks for the advice. think i heard about that before. where do you get new rubber bushings?

9 hours ago, munters said:

Sali Nils

Since im trying to reproduce the Euro-chin spoiler (Lip) could you tell me how rigid it is? Is there a metall bar inside or just urethane?

Thanks Marcel

Hi Marcel. it's really soft, it will bend easily by it's own weight once you lift it up. Where are you from? if you're near you're free to have a look at it. You can even lend it to make an exact copy or so... Just hit me with a PN.

I know it might not be an option for you, but I bought ACDelco part number 45G25036 from Rock Auto. That kit contains everything you need for one side. Two rubber bushings and all the metal pieces. Comes with metal tube, two large washers, two small washers, and a nut. Looks like this:

But since you already have all the metal hardware, you would only need one kit. Use one of the rubber bushings on each side. Poly on the front, and rubber on the back. Looks like this:

The rubber bushings have a wide side and a narrow side. The narrow side goes towards the frame of the car. It's hard to see the difference once everything is all smashed in place with the nut, but you can see the difference before it's assembled onto the car. The orientation of the bushings should look like this:

The tension rod bushings are still available from Nissan. I bought them from Courtesy Nissan recently. They had modern manufacturing dates

On 7.2.2018 at 3:51 PM, Captain Obvious said:

I know it might not be an option for you, but I bought ACDelco part number 45G25036 from Rock Auto. That kit contains everything you need for one side. Two rubber bushings and all the metal pieces. Comes with metal tube, two large washers, two small washers, and a nut. Looks like this:

But since you already have all the metal hardware, you would only need one kit. Use one of the rubber bushings on each side. Poly on the front, and rubber on the back. Looks like this:

The rubber bushings have a wide side and a narrow side. The narrow side goes towards the frame of the car. It's hard to see the difference once everything is all smashed in place with the nut, but you can see the difference before it's assembled onto the car. The orientation of the bushings should look like this:

 

23 hours ago, Patcon said:

The tension rod bushings are still available from Nissan. I bought them from Courtesy Nissan recently. They had modern manufacturing dates

Thanks for the input guys! appreciate! Already heard that from a few other sides as well so guess i will go that route.
@captain obvious, wouldn't it make sense to have the front one in ruber and the rear one on urethane? the front one beeing the compression bushing, right? or am i wrong?