Thats bad luck about Yves. Hope he recovers fully. Whiplash can cause problems for a long time.

 

Like the work you did on the fan. I have read about it and your step by step photo's make it look like and easy upgrade.

10 hours ago, EuroDat said:

Thats bad luck about Yves. Hope he recovers fully. Whiplash can cause problems for a long time.

 

Like the work you did on the fan. I have read about it and your step by step photo's make it look like and easy upgrade.

yeah i hope the same.
you're welcome regarding the fan. i hope everything fits nicely once installed. i guess the heater / Blower box is one of my next projects so i will see if it fits soon

Yeah it's not like i've been not doing anything on the car lately but im corrently working on what is probably the most complicated assembly on the car and it needs a lot of time to figure out how to handle the adventerous electronis design of the Niles Electric company from 45 years ago. As you might know I'm a senior electronics engineer in my daily job so it's kinda fun and i want to do it right. However it's a bit tricky to get such an weird and oldschool design "right". So it needs time. But let's start with something else:
Last week i loaded the hatch into my car:

Brought it over to R-performance so they can add new studs to the rear spoiler and he asked for the wing so he can align the studs to the holes in the hatch. Good idea
This time they were busy preparing the full-carbon bodied K24 Turbo Integra for the coming time-attack season. This car is serious business!

What really gave me headaches was the turn signal switch. After days of trying different things i finally brought of the switch knob from the turn signal arm and was able to disassemble everything:

Here you can see how the (what the manual calls) Dimmer switch works. Contact open:

Contact closed (the wire is short circuited to the turn signal arm which is mounted to the body, so basically it's connected to ground once the button is pushed):

Of course i broke the plastic knob while attempting to removing it. either i manage to remove one of the other two i have without braking it or i will need to have one 3D-printed for me since nothing is available..

I decided to exchange the old and brittly cable whilte at it so today i took two of the switches to my office and soldered in new wires. Before:

After. Tried two wires with different stiffnes so i can see which one works better. You can see the original wires on the right side. That's it. next step is getting a good turn signal switch knob and assemble everything back together since everything is clean and all the contacts nice now

Since there is no out-of the box solution and not a single internet-thread on this topic i had a hard time completing this step and therefore the lack of updates. It seems just a turn signal switch assembly, but i spent several hours on this one to finally get a clean and well working result. And had to buy several stuff while doing it so that allways gave me a little break inbetween. Anyhow here is how i went:
After four attempts i managed to remove one of the four plastic handles (the last one) which i had without braking it - success!!

Cleaned the switching lever with some scotch and brite pads and you can see the copper where the corrosion started:

Painted it with some gloss black rattle-can spray:

But was disapointed by the result, so i removed the paint and sprayed it again:

This time the result was much better. Time to assemble things again:

Wire and positive pole back in:

Bought this plastic polishing / Scratch remover stuff and cleaned the plastic knob:

Not perfect but much better than before:

Wasn't able to find anything near the original brass thinky to mount the handle back into the base so i got a little inventive and used brass nails istead. Looks like OEM, fits perfect and is more stable than the original design:

And than the rest of the parts came back together:       

Final result. only need to connect the wires back together. but otherwise super happy with the result:

Nice detail work on the parts. Sometimes it's the little things that really add enjoyment. Like you, I've found that the driver controls fit into that category.

And along those lines, I finally snapped a pic of my headlight switch that I cleaned up next to one that has been sitting in a box. Here's the two switches so you can see the contrast of before and after. It's the little things:

looking nice, mate! think mine got about similar, just maybe with less scratches, since i was able to choose the best of four sets of switches

I'm currently planning my next steps, doing a lot of research and ordering small parts here and there to contiue with work. One of the things i wanted to do is to decide wether if i really want to go my planned route with adding 52mm Oldschool Omori Meter gauges to the interieur or sticking with the OEM 60mm gauges. I once ordered a nice 52mm Fuel gauge with the correct resistors for my Z so i will probably give it a try soon and decide if i search for more (now discontinued) Omori gauges or not. First i tested my gauge but that means i had to translate the Japanese only drawings:

Then finally i was able to connect it to the 12VDC supply and check it out. the needle turns to max at the startup and lighting works so i guess it's ok since it was never used in a car.
Really like the oldschool look and the fact i can rock some more authentic and oldschool parts in my Project.

To make them fit into the original 60mm housings, the internet had all kind of funky solutions ready, but none of them seemed to be as professional as i wanted it to be. So i ordered these ATI 60 to 52mm Gauge adapers made out of rubber. they look nice but i'm not sure yet if my plan will work out. will have look soon i guess.

Istead of fiddling around with all the small bits and pieces i decided it's more important to get the subframe parts ready so i can assemble the car back to a rolling chassis once the shell is completed. The reason this has been a bit on the low-end of my priority list was the fact that i just had no clue what to do. But lately i read a lot and now i'm even a bit more confused. Same goes for the suspension which i will dedicate a separate post to soon.
The main problem beeing i have a EUROPEAN 240Z, which suspension- differential- and transmission-wise is totally different than US-Versions and therefore useful information is rare and sometimes appears to be wrong. Ask three people and you will get three different answers...
I cannot confirm any of this Informations but so far what seems to be the right data (maybe someone can confirm?), is this:
Differential now:
I'm running a 1972 EU-Spec Datsun 240z. It seems like all 240z's worldwide have been delivered from the factory with the R180 Differential (Anybody knows the original manufacturer / designer of these?). European-spec cars seemed to have a 3.9 Final drive (Ring gear).

The good thing is i will be able to confirm this, as soon as i take my Differential apart and read the numbers on the ring gear (Picture shows a 49/12 = 4.08 Ring gear, not from my car)

Differential Future Options:
Now it seems like i have many options:
- R180 Stock differential, with upgraded LSD (OS Giken, Nismo, Quife, Cusco, ....)
PRO: Direct fitment, lighter compared to the R200
CONTRA: Depending on the original LSD relatively weak and oldschool design
- R190 Differential (Option from various Competition catalogues, Nissan Z432, etc)
PRO: Direct fit
CONTRA: Relatively rare to find.
- R200 Differential
PRO: Widely and cheap aviability, quite Powerful.
CONTRA: Relatively heavy, extensive modifications needed on the stub axles.
- R180 Subaru Differential
Pro: More modern design and quite a lot of parts available, Lightweight
Contra: Again a lot of modifications needed on the stub axle side.

Transmission now:
Comparing images, datasheets etc, it seems like my car came with the first generation FS5C71-A type Transmission. Definitly i have a 5-speed manual like all european cars and according to the cast-design of the housing it must bee an A-Type (First version), But i'm still not sure on that one. Can anybody confirm this?

The similar 5-speed transmission from my other 1972 240Z:

According to some information on the Interwebs it seems like these are my gear ratios (Still need confirmation on this one):

FS5C71A
1.         2.957
2.         1.858
3.         1.311
4.         1.000
5.         0.852
RearGear   3.900

Transmission Future Options:
Similar to the Differential i have a bunch of options.
- FS5C71A (Keep it stock)
PRO: keep it original
CONTRA: Oldschool design
- FS5C71B
PRO: Slightly more modern design
CONTRA: maybe slight modifications needed? (Shifter kit?), Small advantage compared to stock
- FS5C71C
PRO: Most modern design with much better synchronization etc.
CONTRA: Modification of the propellar shaft needed, etc.

Since i'm planning to run a modified L24 or L28 for street use and the annual trackday, i'm really not sure which option is the best for me. I don't want to run any overkill setup with huge heavy differentials and a gearbox with a lot of modifications needed for installation, but since i'm planning to take apart everything anyway, it would be great to upgrade it at the same point. So i'm really thankful for all information i can get from the pros. Let me know your opinion.

So after researching a lot lately i knew what should theoretically be in my car, but since i never had a look at my second car, i thought it might be the best idea to just go and check all the numbers and identification marks.
Motor:
The engine is clearly an L24 (2,4L),

using the P30 block:

While the head is the E88 head:

Also found a few interresting casting-marks and stamps on the front of the head, but not sure if this has any information behind. maybe someone knows? (#3 to the left, 30 on the top and something like 8.21 to the right)

So i guess these are the specs of my Motor. There are (depending on the source) up to three different E88 heads around and it seems like i have the first version which seems to be the best one, performance-wise.

Transmission:
I cannot confirm what it is inside, but what i know is, i haven an early 5-speed transmission. So it definitely has to be an "A-type" which is indicated by the 3-piece design, the cast-pattern of the middle-piece and the "monkey motion" shifter design:

Various sources tell me that european cars came with the FS5C71A Transmission, which means:
F: Type of Control, F= Floor (direct)
S: Transmission Style, S = Special overdrive top gear
5: 5 Forward speeds
C: Servo Synchros
71: Gear-pair center-to-center spacing in mm (distance between centershaft and countershaft = 71mm)
A: Continuos numbering of model version, A beeing the first version

I also found some castings on the bellhousings and middle piece but i guess they don't give any information..?

Also found this cast on the transmission. One seems to be the manufacturer's logo but wasn't able to track it down. Can anybody tell me which manufacturer this is?
Also found this "5.17" casted below the logo. Anybody knows what it means? This shot is of the rear piece and if you look close you can see it in the first picture of the transmission, above. 

Differential:
The last bit part of my investigation beeing the Differential. According various sources my car came equipped with an R180 Differential from the factory. Means an outer ring gear diameter of 180mm. Some say it's manufactured by Fuji Heavy industries (the mother company of subaru), since subaru used the same Differentials later, but if you have a close look you can clearly see the Hitachi logo on the bottom left. There are lot of numbers cast on the bottom of the differential but i doubt these indicate some useful information.

Same on the bottom. The only thing i can say is there is no big "K" casted somewhere, so i have an early type R180 without the 110mm Ring gear (inner diameter), which means my plan to install an OS-giken LSD (made for 115mm ring gear) will not work out, unless i swap something.

Here is the second (similar) Diff from the second car. I guess they sprayed it in some kind of nasty rubber to seal some leakage back in time.

Similar casts on the second Diff, with probably no information behind, except the Hitachi logo on the bottom left.

Unfortunatly all the important information is inside the Diff, so i drained the oil and had a closer look inside...

Surprisingly i found this yellow "29" mark. Not sure if it's from factory, but for me this looks like some replacement part or something? Can anybody confirm this is a factory marking?

But here we go. Not sure what the rest means (let me know if you know). but the first part 39:10 is what i was looking for. It means that i have a Final drive ratio of 39/10 = 3.9 Which is recommanded for "allround driving" with a 5.gear.

Also you can clearly see it's an "open Type" differential.

Still need to decide which route i go, but at least i know what i have now. Next up will be some informatino about the Suspension

Remember when i removed the Waterpump from my Motor (it's already 4 years ago. Damn, time is running), it looked like this:

Ever since then i knew i need replacement but it's on the bottom of the priority list. However a while ago i made an order at a supplier in Japan and figured out they'd sell a waterpump for 35USD. So why not give it a try?
When it arrived i put a picture in this blog and a lot of people mentioned the poor quality.
After going through the Kameari catalogue i figured out they sell something from a Manufacturer called "Aisin". A quick search and i found the catalogue online with the Partnumber WPN-013. Available for 80 Bucks on the web. Just out of curiosity i bought it.

I also figured out that Aisin Seiki is a Huge OE-supplier in Japan and used to belong to Toyota in the past. and that they're really big in the water-pump business.. Googling the partnumber on the Cheap pump's box i figured out it's coming from a Chinese Company Called Wenzhou Aobon Pump industries:

So here is the comparison: Left Aisin, Right Aobon. Aisin has a classic Cast pattern while the Aobon somehow has a much smoother surface. The Sealing gasket of the Aobon item is more or less a piece of thin cardboard and the bolts / Studs are completely missing at the Aobon item.

But the main difference is on the inside. You can clearly see that the Aobon shuffle wheels are not cast but somehow a bent metal piece. Some people pointed out that the bearings are really bad on the chinese product and that it will rust much faster. Aisin Claims on their website that their products have been treated with anti-corrosion stuff. Also the Aisin item comes with an installation manual and lots of informations.

Here some more information of the Aisin pump. So i definitly will scrap the Aobon Pump and run with the Aisin Pump. More than happy to support a japanese manufacturer istead of the cheap chinese Copycat product

I'm at home with a flu. While this is generally a bad thing, on the other side i have plenty of time to do all the meticulous research on Suspension, Transmission and differential Options available. And the good thing is i'm seeing the light at the end of the Tunnel. Suspension wise i still miss some small chunk of information so i got myself this spring compressor to remove the old ones and measure them a bit:

However The most important part is: I made a deceision when it comes to the Differential.
I'll go with the Subaru STI Hitachi R180 Differential. This one is similar to the R180 From my datsun and looks absolute OEM from the outside. The main difference is the "K" casting on the top which indicates that there is a 115mm inner ring gear diameter compared to the 110mm of my old one. Now is this worh a swap? No. The main reason is that there are plenty of spareparts available and even optional parts Like limited slip Units.

The good thing is that Torsen-type (Helical) Limitied slip units (LSD's)  come factory from subaru in some applications so its even better I decided to go with the torsen type since i drive the car mainly on th e street. German readers might want to check out this page about the different LSD types: http://www.limitedslip.de/varianten.html

The bad thing is that the Subaru Differential has a 27Spline (teeth) side axles while Nissan had 25spline axles. Beta Motorsports made some adapters but from what i understoud the owner died a while ago and now they're available through wolf creek racing:
http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22&Itemid=31

I hope to get my questions regarding the suspension answered soon. so the next steps will be more about collecting, preparing and assembling these parts. It can get a bit boring in front of the computer

While im still investigating and reading a lot i got a Delivery from MSA today which i made a while ago. Still some parts are missing but it's allways nice to get new parts
1) Drum Brake Hardware kit

2) Brake and Clutch line mounting clips (inner and outer)

3) Rear brake lines. Somehow got two slightly different ones, but will just use them as a template for braided steel hoses anyway.

4) Brake light switch to complete the Pedalbox.

5) Hazard switcher unit. was quite surprised to see it's a "Niles" Company item, because the company was sold in 2011. Have been looking for these parts in a while and probably will do a post about it. still waiting for a few answers from the current owners...

6) Last but not least i got the taillight replacement center chrome bezels / trims. My tailights are in great condition except these so i plan to refurbish them.

Still waiting for the rest of the parts and a big delivery from japan...