changing efi hoses on 78 280z

[Captain Obvious]

The connectors are easy to install... Put the "U" shaped metal retainer clip fully into place before you push the connector onto the injector. The connector is designed such that the retainer metal will push out of the way as you force the connector onto the injector and then "click" into place once the connector is fully seated. No muss, no fuss.

Taking them off is much more difficult than putting them on.

[no.never]

Parts are here and the rain is gone. Ready to install tomorrow. probably gonna do injectors then the rail. Is there an orientation or as long as the connectors are accessible?

Get this: 4/6 of the old injectors didn't have filters and the o rings were half the size of the new ones. Yikes.

[no.never]

First off, big ups to everybody that chimed in. Appreciate it.

You guys weren't kidding about it being a PITA to install. Never thought I'd ever do this, not bad. I didn't cut the hoses the right length or pushed them in all the way because a manifold bolt didn't make it, passable. Installed the battery and it was low. Turns but may be too low to start. Even with a jump. So I didn't get a chance to hear her roar, but it was enough to turn on the fuel pump, saw that I forgot to tighten a clamp. What a newb. Did hear a hissing sound coming from the pressure regulator, don't remember if that was there before.

hopefully it's the bat. Charging the bat tonight. Looks like tomorrow I dive into the electric abyss. my pops might come check it out. The fuse box has wires everywhere. Read someone had similar issues with a hacked fuse box. Well, it's threading time!

Fuel leak at the injectors?

No. Never!

[no.never]

This is probably another thread, but may be related.

She's aliiiiiiive!! Insert a clenched fist and a "that's what I'm talking about." New starter and injectors make it like a dream. but driving it it's very sluggish. I also get back fires, pops, around the AFM. battery dies out so maybe the alternator has to go too, lack of power explains the sluggish. Otherwise would something I did cause this? Plugged a connector upside-down? All injectors click, dead cylinder? Electrical? Moved it a couple of weeks without a problem, except that fuel leak.

[no.never]

Oh and happy thanksgiving everybody! Or happy Thursday everybody!

[FastWoman]

Backfire (through the intake) indicates a lean condition. Be careful of those intake backfires, because they can bend the AFM's metering vane.

If you have a dead cylinder, the exhaust will go chug chug chug in a regular rhythm. All cylinders firing should result in a perfectly steady exhaust beat. Random misfires is generally a mixture issue.

Exhaust blowing hard and spitting occasional water droplets = lean. If your engine is running lean enough to backfire, your plugs will probably be fouled with carbon. Many people are confused by this and think the plugs are reading rich. The textbook "lean" reading spark plug indicates an only somewhat lean condition, while the backfiring and fouled plugs indicates severely lean.

Edited November 23, 2012 by FastWoman

[no.never]

Thanks FW. I'll shall consult the FSM. Plus Ima do some electrical testing this weekend try and figure what's going on. You know, I wouldnt be surprised if my AFM is gone or if there's leaks. That first backfire was pretty loud and forced It's way out of the AFM. Might have to change the alt and now maybe the AFM, yikes.

The plugs were cleaned and gap, they were pretty fouled. had changed them when I got the car.

[no.never]

And that's that. Cleaned the fuse box, a terminal was loose and some rust and a sneaky fuse. got a new bat and now runs like a boss. Insert giant smile. The engine humms smooth, No backfire, sluggish, huge difference. still have gremlins I gotta catch, but for now it's been a long time coming so Ima enjoy the ride.

The exhaust does have a bit of gas smell. That means it's rich?

[FastWoman]

The engine humms smooth, No backfire, sluggish, huge difference... The exhaust does have a bit of gas smell. That means it's rich?

Maybe. Is yours a California model with a catalytic converter? If so, the exhaust shouldn't smell gassy. If yours lacks a cat, or if the cat isn't working, you might be smelling a "normal" exhaust. I don't know how old you are, but many/most people who don't remember watching the moon landings also don't know what car exhaust really smells like without a catalytic converter.

What do you think resolved the backfire? Did you clean up some sensor connectors?

The easiest mixture check you can do is to read the engine vacuum. It should idle in the neighborhood of 18-19 on an old Z engine if everything is running right. Too rich or too lean, and the vacuum will be lower.

Edited November 26, 2012 by FastWoman

[no.never]

Well I'm old enough to have driven a cat-less 260z before this one, hehehe. Both are CA z's, both have exhaust that leaks into the cabin, from the shifter mostly but also a leak in the exhaust somewhere. on the 260z it was really bad because the exhaust wasn't connected at the manifold and no weatherstripping, the smell was "normal" but then again i was high on fumes so my brain cells were probably gone by then, hehe. i haven't really checked for leaks on the 280 but it seems like it's the same place, but the smell is now more of a strong carbon smell. driving it last night made my eyes water a bit, not this morning though.

What do you think resolved the backfire? Did you clean up some sensor connectors?

i honestly haven't the slightest clue. have three suspects: found plugs #2 & #4 wrong (i was excited, shh), when replacing the air filter found towels stuffed under the filter, and the pressure regulator was in all of the troubleshooting checks. once electrical was set it was like there wasn't fuel delivery even though there was, as if flooded. when cleaning the rail i didn't take the pressure regulator out but i had sprayed carb cleaner in it through the top, don't know if that messed it up but i don't remember it being this noisy, can feel it click. i cranked it with the air filter out and it struggled, gave me a small pop, then started on the next one. maybe the initial pop unclogged it? as for the connectors they were all fine, the only ones i didn't look at because of access were the AFM and the ones under the wiper tank (ECU?). maybe i used too much deoxit? maybe the AFM was stuck?

It should idle in the neighborhood of 18-19 on an old Z engine if everything is running right. Too rich or too lean, and the vacuum will be lower.

mine is idling at around 12 or 10. i'm noticing once i run it the idle goes up to around 15. and i thought 15 was too high. i gotta read into checking the vacuum and properly doing a continuity check since i'm still chasing electrical gremlins. that 35 pin was pretty tough to get out, mainly from the bottom. definitely still gotta troubleshoot.

Edited November 26, 2012 by no.never

[FastWoman]

There's no such thing as vacuum that's too high. The higher the vacuum, the more efficiently your engine is running.

If yours starts at 10-12 and makes its way to 15 when it leans out (in response to rising engine temperature), I'd say you're running too richly. Watering eyes is consistent with this! Common sources of a rich condition are...

-- incorrectly operating throttle position switch

-- stuck-open cold start valve

-- coolant temp sensor problem -- too high a resistance, often from a bad connection

-- air temp sensor problem -- too high a resistance

-- incorrect fuel pressure (bad fuel pressure regulator)

-- molested AFM -- usually mucked up by someone trying to correct for a more common lean condition, usually from vacuum leaks

[no.never]

dirty word on the street is i need to buy a yogurt cup this weekend...

-- throttle position switch = throttle valve switch (FSM, EF15)? sound similar. may be faulty as mine doesn't have a cover.

-- cold start: the car had been sitting for a while and dead batter so i didn't depressurize through cold start like in FSM. when i disconnected IN/OUT lines, didn't leak much fuel. would that have damaged it?

-- AFM: don't feel comfortable removing the AFM... but might try it

the out-of-car tests for these things seem like it's out of my level...