A/C for 240z

[psdenno]

Thanks for the info.Do you have an idea about the performance of this kit ?.It will cost me a great deal and would like to get my moneys worth...

Works well for me in the California desert where daily summer temperatures typically range from 110º to 115º F (43-46º C). A set of rear window louvers is also helpful in reducing the hatch window greenhouse aspect.

Dennis

[djwarner]

I've just completed installing the VintageAir Mini and controller you are thinking about. I did decide to modify the system to retain the fresh air ventilation. This required the creation of a damper door inside of a shuttle. When raised, the damper door is closed and air is taken from the interior into the top and bottom of the fan. When lowered, the damper door is opened and the shuttle drops onto the top end of the fan.

In order to facilitate the fresh air shuttle, I moved the fan left by inserting a duct box. I also inverted the fan to move it forward and to aid the shuttle fit up (avoiding the wires that were on top.)

Again, as I said before, if I were doing it again, I would get a sliding gate from Woodcrafters and leave the Evaporator Box stock to preserve the warranty. see

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2000899/2167/4-basic-blast-gate-dust-collection-fitting.aspx

Edited January 15, 2013 by djwarner

[MKI4EVA]

I've just completed installing the VintageAir Mini and controller you are thinking about. I did decide to modify the system to retain the fresh air ventilation. This required the creation of a damper door inside of a shuttle. When raised, the damper door is closed and air is taken from the interior into the top and bottom of the fan. When lowered, the damper door is opened and the shuttle drops onto the top end of the fan.

In order to facilitate the fresh air shuttle, I moved the fan left by inserting a duct box. I also inverted the fan to move it forward and to aid the shuttle fit up (avoiding the wires that were on top.)

Again, as I said before, if I were doing it again, I would get a sliding gate from Woodcrafters and leave the Evaporator Box stock to preserve the warranty. see

Buy 4 ABS Blast Gate at Woodcraft

[ATTACH=CONFIG]59814[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]59815[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]59816[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]59817[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]59818[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]59819[/ATTACH]

Any chance you can put up pics of how the other parts look in your engine bay?

[djwarner]

The compressor is mounted low on the driver's side where the air pump was located. Condenser coil mounted in front of the radiator bracket. The dryer and pressure cutout switch mounted on the passenger inner fender. Hoses make a loop as follows: Compressor forward to the condenser coil. Out of the condensor coil across the front to the passenger side then back to the dryer. From the dryer to the switch and then into the passenger compartment under the battery. To the evaporator box and back out under the battery again. Then across the fire wall to the driver's side and back up to the compressor.

The heater line run through the original holes with the control valve mounted behind the evaporator fan. I used bulkhead fitting through the firewall but if I were to do it again, I would just run heater hoses per the OEM design.

[hatepotholez]

On 11/14/2012 at 4:35 PM, Jarvo2 said:

As I had a hard time trying to find info on dealer-installed A/C's, I wanted to share what I was able to come across. Please note that I've since sold this setup, but it should give those of you interested in A/C some ideas.

Your the best, thanks for this!