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The Lime Green Machine Restoration Thread - 1972 240Z


Hardway

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Riding a wave of progress I turned my attention back to the differential. After doing some research I determined I needed a Nissan seal #38342-N3100. As you can see in the picture the B/A seal is smaller, 52mm to be exact and the orignal worn seal on the far left is 55mm. The seal in the middle is what I found on Ebay as Nissan was sold out of the seals with no time frame on when they would get more. The Ebay seal is made in Japan and sold by seller Seal Giant. It is spot on to the original and at $18 for the pair shipped the price was good too.

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I made sure the bearing cavity was clean and lightly lubed with some diff fluid before I tapped it in using a cylinder from my ball joint install kit and a brass hammer. I went slow to make sure it went in straight and was not distorted. All in all it was an easy job once I had the right seals.

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I also picked up a new fill plug for the diff from MSA. I did not expect it to have the magnet on the back but it did. The original was not sealed with anything but I wrapped the threads with some oil & gas resistant sealant tape. Once the diff was filled with some 80w-90 GL5 fluid the plug went in the differential is 100% done and crossed off the list.

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While I was letting the stub axle get cold in the freezer it occurred to me I may want to test fit the new spindle pins before I even get close to the point when I would need them. I am glad I did as one of them would not go in all the way. This was because the inside walls has been slightly gouged from pressing the old ones out. No worries, I put a rolled sanding bit on my rotary tool and after a few minutes everything was looking and feeling good.

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Since it I was on a roll I moved to getting all the bushings installed for the rear suspension. The outer control arm bearings were no harder than I expected and basically used a C-clamp to aid in pushing in the center bushing tube. The larger inner bushings were another story as the bushing tube fits very tightly over the control arm tube. I used a small sledge hammer to get the first one on but then had an “ah-ha” moment… what I am doing? I have a press! I lightly lubed the bushing tube with some 3 in 1 oil before pressing it on.

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Everything went together with no fuss. Even got the mustache bar bushings in with the aid of my bench vise. Productivity is a beautiful thing!

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I still had some energy left in me so I got my parking brake cable mounted back on the car. Its hard to tell but I masked off the ends and painted the hardware at each end of the cable to protect it from corrosion since all of its zinc coating was now gone. Also got the rear control arm support brackets installed.

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For 8 hours worth of work I was very happy at the end of the day with what I accomplished.

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Nice work.

You may wish to consider tucking the plastic gas filter high up behind something metal to prevent road debris from a direct hit.

Thank you Blue. You are spot on as I had the same thought as well. I plan to build a shield out of sheet metal or fab something out of plastic to put around everything. Gonna wait until the rear end and everything is in place to see what I kind of room I have and go from there.

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Nice work!

Regarding the diff filler plug, (I'm pretty sure it was filler and not the drain on my '73) you might want to consider one with a "male" square instead of a female. Clearance is very tight behind the plug once the diff is installed, and I was not able to get a ratchet cleanly into the plug. A male one enables you to use a wrench, which does not require any clearance beyond the plug itself.

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Between you and grannynot I get tired just reading the amount of work you guys knock out in a week. You guys must obviously be organized which is a great asset when under taking a project this big.

A comment about the sandblaster. I had a big cabinet and it was nice, but without a BIG compressor, it can be aggravating. You need something that puts out big CFM at 90 psi which gets you into the 1500$ plus range.

A good rotary tool is priceless- infact I need one myself!!

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Good idea on the filler plug Tlorber. For now I will it the way it is since at the rate I put miles on my toy cars it will not need to be changed again for a long time.

Thank you for the compliments Madkaw. I think the biggest key to getting work done on these cars is having right tools and the know-how to use them. My rotary tool, press, and air compressor get used every weekend. Back in the day when I just had a small air compressor things took a lot longer and when I was younger and just had a good socket set along with some screw drivers and a few hammers even simple things took forever. You make a good point on the sandblasting setup. For what I can do with my rotary tool vs. what little more I could do with a sandblaster does not make up for the large price difference. What I am doing is not really a restoration but more of a thorough re-hab and clean up of all the components I am working on. For the level of the finished product I am looking to achieve I am very happy with how it is coming along.

Edited by Hardway
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Your attention for detail will show up in the end. I have seen cars that put very nice new parts on there, but the lack of attention to detail distracts from the final product.

Right tools work well, but an organized -planned mission goes a lot further, and saves money too!!

Okay-I peeked at your profile Jeff,

project manager, I should have guessed.

Edited by madkaw
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hardway, great job. Attention to detail is great. I have 2 71's to work on. Nearing completion of the rotessire but really waiting on ice out here in Wisconsin. You mention putting a large order in Fastenal for literally all new bolts. By any chance do you have a list and what quanities you order? If you do could you pm it up to me?

All I can say you are going to have a nice ride! Keep up the great work.

Newtonhubcap

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