The Lime Green Machine Restoration Thread - 1972 240Z

[Hardway]

Here is the link to it on Rock Auto. Only $10.35 and you will need to buy one for each side. If Rock Auto won't deliver to Norway at least it lists both part numbers in the description.

ACDELCO Part # 45G25036

[EuroDat]

Rock Auto will deliver to Norway no problems via FedEx. I have used them and they are quick. Takes about a week to 1-1/2 weeks via Paris. Be aware when ordering different items, sometimes they come from different warehouses and that drives the shipping costs up a lot.

You could also try Rock Auto in the UK, might be quicker but it probably wont be much cheaper.

Chas

[Hardway]

So I got back on the 240Z this past week after being side tracked by my ‘88 300ZX Turbo. I cut the front springs down one more coil in an effort to the bring nose down a bit.

Now the new Chevette spring has a free height of 10.25” and after reinstalling everything it did help the car level out.

Despite my best efforts I still have not resolved the issue of having too much positive camber. It is easy to see when looking at the car straight on. The passenger side it worse than the driver side.

Seeing that there is no camber adjustment I am running out of ideas other than trying to lower the car some more. The problem is now the springs are short enough where they do not require any type of compression to put the strut back together so I am very reluctant to cut them anymore. Am I missing something here? I double checked and the lower control arm bushing has the thick side at the rear which I believe is correct. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[Captain Obvious]

Despite my best efforts I still have not resolved the issue of having too much positive camber.

Was the front camber better before you did all the suspension work? In other words... Was this issue was always present, or is this a new development somehow caused by all the work you have done?

[Hardway]

I did not have the camber issue prior to doing all the suspension work. The yellow springs that were one it made it sit very low and everything looked good but the springs and low stance gave me an inch or less of suspension travel. I would like to think I am back around what stock ride height would be but I am not 100% sure.

[cbuczesk]

Bent strut housing, control arm, frame or inner fender maybe? You can get adjustable camber bushings for the lower control arm. I have an extra set. If you're interested send me an email. They will come with other bushings for $30 shipped for all. I just want to get rid of the stuff.

Chuck

cbuczesk@comcast.net

[Hardway]

I just sent you an email Chuck. Below is how it looked before I got started. It is sitting on the yellow lowering springs and all the wheels looked correctly aligned. Unfortunately I did not take a head on shot before I got started. I look forward to hearing back from you on the bushings.

[John Coffey]

With the car on the ground, loosen the front lower control arm bolts and roll the car forward and back and bounce on the rocker sills. Then tighten the lower control arm bolts to spec with the car on the ground..

Edited May 29, 2013 by John Coffey

[Hardway]

Good idea John. I guess it is possible the suspension maybe binding up a bit. I will pick up a set of drive up ramps so I can get under there and do as you suggested.

[EuroDat]

Can you remember if there was any play in the anchor bolts for the lower control arms? Just thinking if there is play in the crossmember holes it could add extra chamber. Looks like it has quiet a bit on the photo.

It might have been like it before you did the work, but because it sat so low the geometry corrected it enough so it wasnt that noticable.

After doing my front suspension with PU bushes, lower ball joints and Tie rod ends, my chamber is very slightly positive. My strut towers measure 905mm from center hole to center hole. Thats the hole for the shock nut.

Chas

[Hardway]

I remember when I put the anchor bolts in they had to go in exactly straight so there was no play in them.

When you say your strut towers measure 905mm, are you talking about 905mm across the engine bay or somewhere else? My car has never been hit so I don't think I have any issues with my strut towers.

[Hardway]

Due to starting a new job and getting side tracked with other projects I am just now getting around to posting a few pics of my carb rebuild and tuning. This was all made possible by Blue and Mike W, you can read the whole story here -> http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/49789-connecting-member-canada-thank-you-blue.html

I knew I had some issues with the carbs as the car ran very rich all the time. Some of the items we addressed included, making sure the return springs for the choke and throttle worked smoothly, tearing each carb down, cleaning everything, and paying special attention to key items during reassembly. One thing we noticed was getting the domes centered on the pistons took several tries to get it just right, a point that is often over looked when putting these carbs back together. Also, making sure the fuel nozzles moved smoothly in their bores. We used the clear tube method to get the float adjusted right where we wanted them. We re-used everything except a few small parts from a parts store rebuild kit. I have put on new float bowl gaskets around a year ago. Since they had almost no miles on them they were re-usable.

All in all we spent about 3 hours from start to finish and then did a round of tuning which took around an hour since we did several test drives and spark plug inspections. We also took about 20 minutes to adjust up the throttle linkage to take out all the slack. The car now has instant acceleration!

I still need to put the air cleaners back on but the difference is night and day. She starts right up, pulls super strong through the power band, and best of all, does not smell rich or gassy anymore. Add to that the valve adjustment that we did and the motor is paying us back 10X for our time and effort.