Headlights won't come on

[Wade Nelson]

definitely save your old switch. You me or someone else can use the GOOD contacts that still remain inside it.

AZCLOUDS, Be sure and post what the problem found / resolution was so OTHERS can benefit from this thread, ok?

[Azclouds]

Wade;

I truly understand your post 'stomping' me, but you assumed I had a car that was spliced and Mickey-Moused' up. I said in my original post this car had been with a car collector and had never been ****ed around with. It has only been to certified mechanics and I have the receipts (and incredible original car) to prove it. I also said everything under the column cover "looked like new". Things that have been spliced and worked on by the 'guy down the street' don't look like that. I accept your apology and hold no ill will towards you, but I doubt it was for my own good but was in fact your frustration with ordinary people who screw up things and then ask someone who knows what they are doing to fix it. I don't like doing electrical work and I am not as good as a long-time veteran like yourself, but I am very conservative with my cars and take care of them like they were my children. People who know me, as you do not, would never doubt that I would do anything with my cars that I was not 100% sure of.

All of that being said, I understand your frustration and I am in no way upset with you. Really, I thought it was kinda funny.

I am away from home until this weekend, but when I get home I will take pics and post some details of what happened. If it helps anyone else, that would be great.

P.S. Wade: Using the CAPITAL letters in cyber-talk means you are yelling and are mad (upset). You might want to slow down on the caps. Just a thought.

[Azclouds]

As promised I am posting the end result to my ‘no headlights’ problem. First of all, I tried to find out where the power to the headlights was being lost. From the headlight switch on the steering column to the fuse box it tested hot (‘hot’ is the term I use when the power is reaching where I am testing. I am not an electrical wizard and I probably don’t use all the proper terms, so anyone reading this…don’t ‘rip me a new one’ for my terms ) From the fuse box to the fusible link it was still hot, and from the fusible link to the headlight was also hot. I really could not find where the power was lost. I got out the wiring diagram in my book and followed everything and retested everything, but as far as I could tell nothing was wrong. From here I took the car to a local shop where I trust the mechanics and they have a guy who really, really understands all the electrical workings of cars. All of the areas I had tested he retested and got the same results. He looked at the wiring diagram and noticed the high beam switch box. Pic below. This shot is from the driver-side window. It is the metal box part with the black high/low beam lever sticking out of it and the white connector on the back.

When he tested the connector coming out of the box it was not hot. Well, long story short, we discovered the button clicker-switch-type-thing inside was malfunctioning. Basically the changing of low beam to high beam was stuck in the middle and would not let the power through to the headlights. We took the two small screws (accessible from the back towards the dash) out, opened the unit up, and cleaned up the connections with QD electric cleaner spray, put ‘er all back together, and Viola!! it worked fine. Now when the lever is pushed back and forth it activated the button/plunger or switch (whatever you want to call it) . I figured it was a switch somewhere but I did not want to try to keep changing things until I finally replaced the right switch. Besides, I would have never thought of what it really ended up to be. I would have probably replaced 5 other things before I got to that low/high beam thing! To have him locate exactly where it was failing was faster and cheaper than replacing parts until I got to the right one. Luckily these guys know me and they let me go in to the shop and we fix things together. Helps to learn, that’s for sure!!

I am not a great writer or descriptor with words, so if any of this does not make sense please tell me and I will try to say it in another way so it does make sense.

Sorry this took so long to post but I had to go out of town with my husband for a few days. Yes, I’m a girl ! who has worked on cars since high school. I was the only girl in auto shop!

Again, thanks to all who helped.

[Mikes Z car]

Azclouds,

My car has the same problem, thanks for the picture and the writeup. My headlights sometimes work, they are the last thing wrong with my car, I THINK I have fixed everything else. Anyone know if packing the switch innards with dielectric grease would help prevent this from reoccurring?

Edited December 1, 2012 by Mikes Z car
grammar

[EScanlon]

Mike;

I wouldn't.

Some of those switches have fine plastic pieces that need to "snap" into place for proper operation. If you pack it with grease it won't snap and then you're back where you started. Open up a typical Push On/Off switch and you'll see the small reed that travels in a groove that then locks the button in the on or off position.

Also, dielectric grease is a NON-conductive grease (silicon based) used to weather-proof the connection, i.e. humidity, water, etc.. However, because it is non-conductive you don't want to use it where the electrical contact gets cycled, i.e. on/off/on. It works fine at the connectors to components because you're getting a good MECHANICAL contact first that you are then weatherproofing.

FWIW

E

Edited December 1, 2012 by EScanlon

[Mikes Z car]

EScanlon,

Thanks, now that you mention it I have seen those small plastic slide pieces on switches.

Mike

[Azclouds]

EScanlon, Yes, I noticed when the guy looking at my car was checking out the connections he took a small Q tip looking thing and where ever he sprayed anything he took extra time to make sure everything was exceptionally clean. He didn't leave any goop anywhere and told me much the same thing...make sure everything is super clean.

[Azclouds]

It is most likely the dimmer, or high beam/low beam, switch at the base of the turn signal stalk. It's happened to me on two cars. You can spray contact cleaner in to the guts of the switch and work it back and forth and that will probably fix it. It did for me both times. Or you can take it apart and clean it. You might even find that it's stuck and one click will fix it.

I forgot to give Zed Head kudos on his correct answer!!!!! Anyone with problems might want to get this guy on your team!

[Zed Head]

Thanks for the kudos clouds. Good that you found a mechanic that can trace a circuit and figure things out. Plus take things apart and fix them. A rare find, from what I've read on these forums.

[Azclouds]

Zed Head,

Yep! I agree with ya. The guys I take my cars let me go in to the shop with them and I never, never leave any of my cars with anyone. Some people say I'm picky with my cars......nah...I just love my cars!!!!!

[olzed]

About the little plastic things in the switch. From memory these are the little plunger detent things that go on the end of small springs.There should be a light smear of lubricant where they slide or they will wear out. I made one up using a piece from a plastic knitting needle. A bit fiddly, but it can be done and is still working after 8 years.

[Azclouds]

olzed

Good info. That's creative.

P.S. My husband brought it to my attention that in my previous post I had some *** for a word I used. It was not the "F bomb" !! The word I used was apparently something the program edits. Eeek!! It was not a **@!!& word...honestly, it really wasn't :stupid: