Cam Regrind

[yoshi_w]

Hi, so I am about to embark on an engine rebuild and am planning to get a cam regrind. I have an l28 with an n47 head and roundtop su's. I have 2 questions. 1.) I heard the e88 and e33 heads had cams that were more suited to being reground, is this true? Is the n47 cam ok to get reground? 2.) Does anybody have experience with any cam grinders in the bay area? Or if not is delta cams good? Thanks!

[Diseazd]

Either of the cams you mentioned are OK to regrind. Isky Cams is excellent. Remember......if you have a lift of more than .460 inches, you'll need their valve springs. Also, get Delta Cams to resurface your rocker arms. Finally, you'll need to geometry your cam with the proper lash pads to center the cam wipe patterns. If you're not comfortable with all of this, seek professional help.

[240260280z]

If your head has an internal oiling system (i.e. no oil bar), ensure the cam has the holes and passages for this.

[yoshi_w]

Hey, Diseazd and Blue, thanks for the response. Diseazd, I am planning to buy stiffer vlave springs and new retainers, thicker lash pads, etc, thanks for checking! Ill try to give Isky a call for sure, do you know if Isky resurfaces rocker arms?

[Diseazd]

I know Delta Cams does a beautiful job and cheap at that. I think they were $5.00 per rocker and turnaround was like 7 days.

[EuroDat]

You might want to read this site for general info. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ The head section tells you the differance between heads and which cam will work in your N47 head. The N47 is the first head with internal lubrication of the cam.

Chas

[yoshi_w]

Diseazd, I will definitely use delta cams for the rocker arms then, thanks! So since I my head has internal lubrication does this mean it is probably better to stick with the cam I have, and regrind that, since the earlier cams won't have oil holes in the cam lobes?

[EuroDat]

If its an original cam stamped with "japan" its made of good quality steel. Regrinding that would be a good option.

Be careful with aftermarket cams. If they are not post treated (a process called nitriding) to harden the surface they can wear very quickly and need replacing.

[Diseazd]

Yoshi_w.........If you have a spray bar, you don't need holes in the lobes. If not, you absolutely must have holes in the lobes. Early 240 Z's had spray bars as did some very early 280's. Make sure you understand that relationship. Isky will grind you a beautiful cam......I suggest Stage III. You'll be glad you did.

[yoshi_w]

Hmm, well I'll drop by the z after I finish finals and take a look, since a lot of the lines are wrapped together in heat shield material from the previous owner. Thanks for all of the input I appreciate it! And EuroDat, when you mention the nitriding process are you referring to regrinds as well?

[EuroDat]

Hmm, well I'll drop by the z after I finish finals and take a look, since a lot of the lines are wrapped together in heat shield material from the previous owner. Thanks for all of the input I appreciate it! And EuroDat, when you mention the nitriding process are you referring to regrinds as well?

Yes, if possable its better. If you plan a hi lift regrind, they will remove more metal form the base circles and remove the hardening. The nitriding is a surface treatment, the cam is heated and quenched in ammonia gas making the lobes really hard and giving the cam a really long life span. Not all shops do that and its notacable in the cam life.

Chas