hey all

so since i've got the 280 running i've been happy driving. i get the clankity clank in the rear when driving and also during acceleration. traction loss, her butt skids sometimes. some of the clank is from the driver door, which i can obviously hear, but going over bumps the front is fine but i can feel the back clanking. i haven't checked the suspension but i did look and everything seems fine. i don't mind the noise but i'm sure it's gonna damage or wear something, plus slightly annoying. since it's my DD for now i want it comfortable so i guess new shocks are in order. the drum brakes were next anyways so i'll do the rear struts before the brakes. wouldn't mind having better control.

the cheapest i can find now are KYBs. keeping stock springs, if they're not the issue. am not interested in lowering a car. is there a way to replace the inserts without taking the control arm off? going by Blue's Tech Tips. if not then i'll probably do control arm bushing. i have the bushing master kit for my 260 sitting around, i think they're the same for the 280, maybe i can steal the rear control arm bushings.

It's easy to remove the inner control arm mounts and take the whole two sides of the triangle off, the strut and the arm, as an assembly. You can dink around with trying not to break the brake line open but that's also much easier than you would think. I've wasted lots of time trying not to remove the brake line and to keep the arm bolted up but in the end I realized I had just wasted more time and taken more chances on damaging something, like the fender well lip or the brake hose. If you're planning to do the brakes, including flushing with new fluid and bleeding, just take the whole thing out, but remember to break the main strut/shock nut loose first. If you don't have a spring compressor, try Harbor Freight for a cheap one, you'll need one. You might find that the inner bushings are in good shape and decide not to replace them.

The KYB shocks should work great, especially if you're not lowering.

thanks ZH yea i thought so. i picked up a compressor when i decided to take off the whole front suspension on the 260, knew i was gonna use it. might replace the bushings, since i took off the bushing for the front arm on the 260. get my pyro on. i'll loosen the drum before taking the arm off. and of course, flush and bleed. difference should be awesome.

A bit of advice; Buy yourself a good quality tube flare spanner for the brake lines. Saves damaging the flare nut when you end up using visegrips.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_217518_langId_-1_categoryId_165469

Edited December 11, 201212 yr by EuroDat
Link added

that'll come in handy too. they look rusted. i think i damaged the front ones on the 260 so i'm putting SS on those. also disconnecting from the top, right?

Oh, oh, call on me! I can actually help here. First, courtesy of Leonv check the following:

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html

Bookmark this site: http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

Getting at those struts is not a trivial task. This worst part is the spindle pin. I mushroomed mine getting it out and had to replace it. The locking bolt for the spindle pin is also hard to get out. You can find spares here if you need them:

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SSSC01C02

Disconnect the brakes. You'll hate trying to get the struts out while attached to you car.

Edited December 12, 201212 yr by ksechler

ah yes, it's because of those tech tips that i decided to work on a car, increase the datsun level. before that i had little experience and wanted to find a good shop and let them do it but i couldn't find one close. i would've missed out on a lot of fun. my wallet thanked me too. it also helps that my z's are californian and in fairly good shape hehehe. i wish they all could be california giiiiirls.

i don't think i'm gonna do the spindle pin on this one. from reading on here it seems out of my level and it's a PITA i can do without, for now. and maybe on the arm bushings. i wanted to skip all that and dissemble as little as possible, maybe just swing the arm down so i can just replace the cartridge. but like ZH, in the end it'll probably be better if i just go through with it.

this 280 has taught me a lot already. things that will make the 260 less uncharted. so i'm inclined to work on things that are similar so i can practice, in a sense. good thing lots are the same. like the drum brakes, wanted to have a shop do them specially since the last time i did drum brake job was in high school. but i don't remember it being difficult. maybe i'll have a shop check them afterwards. a safe z is a good z.

Oh, oh, call on me! I can actually help here. First, courtesy of Leonv check the following:

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html

Bookmark this site: http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

Getting at those struts is not a trivial task. This worst part is the spindle pin. I mushroomed mine getting it out and had to replace it. The locking bolt for the spindle pin is also hard to get out. You can find spares here if you need them:

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SSSC01C02

Disconnect the brakes. You'll hate trying to get the struts out while attached to you car.

Thanks for the shout, but Phil (Blue) takes the credit for the actual Tech Tips!

Removing the spindle pins is much nicer with a puller tool, especially a sturdy one, and a lot of heat into the strut housing around the pin.

Phil (Blue) takes the credit for the actual Tech Tips!

indeed.

i did get some strut boots from AZ but they have a bump stop (?) at the top. would these be ok for the z?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Gabriel-Strut-Bumper-Bellow/1978-Nissan-Datsun-280Z/_/N-ivfvlZ8oyq8?itemIdentifier=733199_347763_6064_

it came with those plastic ties, those are probably ok for holding. i can probably use a clamp instead.

You could try original boots 54055-N3700 at your local Nissan dealer.

I got the hack saw out and sawed through the spindle pins. The three shorter sections were easier to tap out with a hammer and drift. Stil took some flogging to get them out. I think spindle pins and rear stub axles are the worse jobs in a Z.

Edited December 12, 201212 yr by EuroDat

i don't think i'm gonna do the spindle pin on this one. from reading on here it seems out of my level and it's a PITA i can do without, for now. and maybe on the arm bushings. i wanted to skip all that and dissemble as little as possible, maybe just swing the arm down so i can just replace the cartridge. but like ZH, in the end it'll probably be better if i just go through with it.

Good luck, but I'm not sure that you have a choice in the matter. I think you have to take the spindle pin out.

yea need that. i just want to minimize the time without the z. with my z level, i think this'll take longer than it should. plus i like taking my time. so i give it two weekends? what's worse case scenario here, i'll have a spindle pin being stupid that i have to saw off?