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The dreaded exhaust leak


Pomorza

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I tapped my head into M12 on #1 & , they were M10 and threads worn over time. I found everything at Nissan dealer and could get you the part #'s if you want. Seems like they were for the truck motor but worked good and could tork them down really good without loctite or orther thread lockers, the heat is too high.

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No problem, I've had the exhaust leak frustration, and the broken studs that had to be drilled out (thermostat housing) frustration, and paid a shop good money to remove a stud (one of the three for the flange to the pipe) and resurface the sealing surface (before I knew that undamaged manifolds are relatively easy to find). Did you check the manifold for straightness, across all of the ports, and good sealing surfaces on each one?

Good to know that the Seafoam showed something, another trick for the tool box. Good luck.

When I replaced the manifold gasket I put a straight edge to the manifold (Really long one) and it all seemed rather straight. Now on that note, this was before I did a bunch of hill climbs where my manifold glowed red afterword - I'm assuming this isn't a good thing to do to these.

Thanks

Jan

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I tapped my head into M12 on #1 & , they were M10 and threads worn over time. I found everything at Nissan dealer and could get you the part #'s if you want. Seems like they were for the truck motor but worked good and could tork them down really good without loctite or orther thread lockers, the heat is too high.

Cylinder head bolts are M10, intake/exhaust manifold threads are M8.

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I was talking about the exhaust studs on #1 and #6. They were M8's originally, I confused them with the 4 intake M10's in the center, sorry. I found my recepit and I am wrong once again, they're M10x1.25 studs with M12 deformed nuts.

It's more likely to be M10 studs with M10 deformed nuts. Otherwise, they wouldn't clamp much of anything!

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