pacemkr Posted December 18, 2012 Share #1 Posted December 18, 2012 hi folks, i thought I would start a new thread with a better, more searchable title. someone made a good point earlier. title should be helpful to people looking for info. previous thread on beginning of my little refurbishing project on my 72 240z was http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread48085.html, aka, "going to try a new thread". anyhow, worked a little tonight on pulling the rest of rear end apart. looks like the diff needs some new seals, ordered some new struts and springs also. take a look at the photos, let me know if you see anything i might have missed. see the very dead shocks. also, shot a little vid in the garage also. does anyone have an idea if that resonator is original? i just noticed it is stamped 'made in japan'. thought it probably is. If anyone wants it, its yours anyways, thanks again for all your comments. nice to have some others to share with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted December 18, 2012 Share #2 Posted December 18, 2012 Tom, Good tittle, much better.One piece of advice about the diff. Looks like the diff back cover gasket is leaking most of the oil. I would replace it and the half shaft seals (half shafts just pop out with a good pull or carefully wedge something between the flange and diff housing). Dont touch the front pinion seal unless you really know what your doing.If the geometry is off the diff will whine and drive you crazy. I have done a couple with a friend that worked in a transmission shop and I have to admit if it wasnt for him it wouldnt of been a happy end.Chas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted December 18, 2012 Share #3 Posted December 18, 2012 I can't get over how clean the undercarriage appears to be.. I'd need to see a picture of the entire center section of the exhaust system to tell if that is the original resonator - I can tell you that my White 72 with 80K miles still has the original exhaust system.. so it is not unusual. keep at it..Carl B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacemkr Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share #4 Posted January 2, 2013 wanted to post a few pics of how i've found removing the stock rubber bushings from rear points. this technique worked well on the spindle pin bushings also. just drilled a series of holes around bushing with proper size drill that would guide the bit through while just skimming ODandID steel sleeves. seemed to work well and saved alot of time trying to burn them out completely. basically just drilled them out with a hand drill, then heated up a bit to soften remaining rubber, then just popped them out with a prying instrument. main reason for this update,,, does anyone know what these numbers on the moustache bar are? just wondering if maybe they 'tell' that this is a replacement part or what? anyone have any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxybj Posted January 2, 2013 Share #5 Posted January 2, 2013 That is the part number for the moustache bar for models from 7/71 to 7/73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted January 2, 2013 Share #6 Posted January 2, 2013 Hi Tom,I discovered, after the first couple of bushes, was to just heat the outside metal while holding and trying to turn the inner tube with vice grips until the rubber lets go. They came out almost clean. Worked a charm on the lower control arm bushes. Very little smoke and fumes.Chas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacemkr Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share #7 Posted January 2, 2013 That is the part number for the moustache bar for models from 7/71 to 7/73anyone know if this number was painted on from factory or does this mean it has been replaced with an oem part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacemkr Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share #8 Posted January 2, 2013 Hi Tom,I discovered, after the first couple of bushes, was to just heat the outside metal while holding and trying to turn the inner tube with vice grips until the rubber lets go. They came out almost clean. Worked a charm on the lower control arm bushes. Very little smoke and fumes.Chasthanks,i have the other side to do still. i will try this for sure. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacemkr Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share #9 Posted January 16, 2013 It's been a while since i updated this post, but ive been trying to stay busy and making some progress. just wanted to share a few pics and findings. basically got the back end all back together now with new struts,springs, and eurathane bushings, etc. popped in a few new flex lines for the rear brakes and a new diff isolator and strap. Hind-sight, I would have liked to take everything down from underneath, clean and repaint because the Earl Shive paint job overspray is just ridiculous but I really want to save time in case i hit roadblocks elsewhere in the car refresh. I think the car will need a quality repaint at some point and I suppose I'll have more time to refresh the paint surfaces underneath at that time. couple findings, I replaced the rubber lines for the gas tank with new ones. I found they were really dried out and cracking so i chose to cut one open. 'My Goodness', what a mess inside. The whole rubber line was absolutely full of degraded rubber, chips, flakes,powder. What a case to point for checking this on any s30 purchased. that new age fuel really does make a mess and i can only imagine what that refuse would have done, left unchecked inside those gas lines. Otherwise, I think the rear end is done. Im loving the look of the lower right height already, and have'nt even done the front yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted January 16, 2013 Share #10 Posted January 16, 2013 anyone know if this number was painted on from factory or does this mean it has been replaced with an oem part?As I recall - every one I've taken off a Z, has had the Part Number printed on it - so I'd say yours is factory.FWIW,Carl B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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