How should I clean this engine

[VoMD]

Hi guys,

I'm new here and this is my first project (I'm learning as I go and have no background on mechanic or anything like that), so i probably going to have lot of questions. My first question is I got a 280z, and after I remove the value cover, I saw the engine as attached in the picture, and the inside of the value cover was dirty as well. I was wondering what's the best solution to clean it myself instead of sending it to someone else to do it (I'm trying to do everything by myself as much as possible).

[TomoHawk]

If you want to make the insides look nice, all you need to do is start changing the oil regularly with a good detergent oil and new filters. Maybe you could change it after about 500 miles or so, then start a more normal service regimen.

Meanwhile, start on the outside of the engine with degreaser and brushes.

[olzed]

Yes to the high detergent oil and frequent changes. I used to use diesel engine oil in an old Toyota Corolla, and the internals were spotless. It had done over 250,000 ks. when it finally rusted away and I drove it to Pick a Part.

When i first bought it with 50,000 ks. the timing chain rattled, which ceased after a few months of high detergent diesel engine oil. I figure the detergent oil cleaned out the oil galleries, allowing the chain tensioner to function properly.

[siteunseen]

I used a lot of foam oven cleaner from walmart, their brand's cheaper, on the outside. My valve train looked like yours, an ashtray. I put a 1/2" piece of clear tubing in my shop vac hose and sucked up the loose stuff, found a broken off head bolt in that crap. Wait until you see inside your oil pan! Then oil changes, lot's of them. Maybe the easiest car ever for changing oil.

And welcome to the club. We love to see pictures of other Z's.

Cliff

Edited December 23, 2012 by siteunseen

[Wade Nelson]

You've got a real mess there. I'd start by plugging the drain holes that allow oil to return to the sump, and then using can after can of brake cleaner on it, along with compressed air. I'd put an old blanket around / over the rest of the engine bay. Keep a fire estinguisher handy.

You COULD use even stronger CARB cleaner but be awares that will eat paint of anything else it gets onto.

After that I'd put the cover back on, pour a quart of kerosene into the oil, and start it up and let it warm up. Then drain and refill with fresh oil.

You've got so much gunk and crap...it would almost justify an engine teardown. You knock big chunks loose and THEY are the ones that are going to clog uup an important oil feed and cause a bearing to fail.

You're kinda damned if you do and damned if you don't at this point.

If you plug those drain holes BE DAMN sure you unplug them. Put a note onto your keychain so you cant start it up without seeing the reminder.

[Zed Head]

Cleaning can cause problems by stirring up material that would otherwise not do any harm. If you're putting an engine together from parts then cleaning everything is important. But if the engine's already together like yours, you're probably better off just adjusting the valves, putting the cover back on, and cleaning only the outside. If the engine runs well why mess with the internal parts?

The brown on the camshaft base circle doesn't matter because that's where the clearance is that you set when you adjust valve lash. In use, nothing rubs on it. It will just come back over time.

Edit - In looking back, the OP said it's a project, and he has no mechanical backgorund. So, it comes down to what the goal of the project is. If the engine is in a car and he wants to get it on the road quickly, then cleaning the internals is probably not the thing to do. If the OP wants to learn how things work and has time then maybe a complete tear-down is the way to go. Just clarifying...

Edited December 23, 2012 by Zed Head

[TomoHawk]

Be careful if you try to clean the insides. Pouring in a solvent might allow large particles or clumps to break loose and that is bad. You want to clean it slowly, jut like the way it got dirty. Only a professional service center has the skill & equipment to clean it 'quickly.' This ism unless you also have the same skill & equipment.

Do a LOT of research & reading about this, via both the Internet and then the Library. Talk to some local mechanics too.

[EuroDat]

I wouldnt touch the inside. One thing to keep in mind, the filter is a bypass filter. You will probably dislodge a lot of sludge. Once the engine speeds up its starts bypassing the filter even more. The higher volume of oil sucks in the sludge and stuff in and that can bypass the filter and go straight thru the bearings. NOT good. What your trying to do is mostly cosmetic and the damage could outweigh the benifit.

Sludge often builds up like that because the engine has been used for short runs and hasnt warmed up enough to remove the condense in the engine. A good diesel oil is probably your best option to clean the inside. Just change it and the filter regulary.

Chas

Edited December 23, 2012 by EuroDat

[FastWoman]

IMO, there's no reason not to clean the internals. Here's what I'd do: When you're ready to change the oil, go ahead and pop off the valve cover. Give the internals a good scrubbing with Chemtool B-12, Gunk engine flush, or perhaps even kerosene. Use a toothbrush to scrub all the junk down. Blot it up with paper towels, and after all the solvent is gone, vacuum up any loose debris, and blow out the area with compressed air. Don't worry about any of the dirt/debris falling/draining down the timing chain tunnel. Just chase it down with some additional solvent. AFTER YOU DO THIS, DO NOT START YOUR ENGINE! Simply remove the drain plug, and all the junk will be safely swept out with the motor oil. Afterwards, run a diesel formulation motor oil (I use Chevron Delo), and change it when it starts looking pretty black or 3000 mi or 6 mo, whichever comes first. Use a good filter like K&N, Bosch, or Mobil 1. (I like K&N.)