I'm not sure what I did but I have my heater control assembly apart to install an aftermarket stereo and when I went to put it all back together I found that my blower motor won't work. I can't find any power going through the switch itself so I'm guessing that it controls the ground side. When I check at the motor only getting .15 volt at the red wire. I must have disconnected something but can't find it for the life of me.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Devin

After what seemed an endless search I found an inline fuse that I presume was not factory installed and it was blown. Blower now works. On to other problems

The same thing happened to me. I found a connector that had apparently had engine coolant dripped on it (heater core connections overhead), which caused the wires to slowly corrode away. One of the wires pulled completely out. The connector was green (not antifreeze green, but copper corrosion green). I just wired in a new connector, and all was well. BTW, the problem occurred when I did some work in the central console area and had undone some nearby electrical connectors. I suppose that was all that was necessary for that last wire strand to break.

Ah! While I was typing, so were you! Well, I'm glad you found the problem.

The early (70-73?) Z's typically had the Heater Blower powered through an in-line fuse holder and not through the fuse box itself.

FWIW

E

The inline fuse took care of the problem. I just assumed it wasn't factory.

Devin

Agg still fighting it. The lead for the map light is supposed to be constant hot isn't it?

And the blower motor won't turn off!

I'm so sick of fighting this dash!

Dome fuse was popped... Map light now works but blower is still on any time the ignition is on. I have continuity from the black wire coming off the switch to the ground connector at the blower

Well my last test for the day I found where ground was coming into the switch and jumped from there to where it goes out to the blower. I turned the key on and the blower didn't run but after a few seconds the fuse popped. I'm done for the day but still looking for ideas

Thanks

Devin

The thing that bugs me is that all this worked fine before I took it apart and was very careful to only use the factory wires for the radio install. Now I've wasted my entire day chasing my tail on irelivant stuff that should have been out to better use.

Finally got it all figured out I think. Including all of the above I had somehow managed to connect the ground side of the blower motor to constant ground, not through the switch. Turns put there is a deceptive wire in the right place.

Devin