I used a product from ProForm Products, (Welcome to Pro Form Products). Is is available in a box with (2) 29"x32" sheets which is large enough to do the rear deck area (I traced the original pattern before removing the old). This bitumen material is a touch thinner than the original stock material but is quite close. It also has a very sticky adhesive which keeps it down firmly whatwith all the ridges in the rear cargo area and is paintable as well. This material is black in color and would be ideal for the stock restoration. Just another option...

Thanks Jim D. for the PM, here are some pics as promised. I think you should be able to distinguish the pattern for the early Series I car with these pics but I would be happy to trace out a pattern for you and send it to you. The sheets are black but were sprayed with a grey primer in preparation for paint. I hope this helps for now...

It might be noted that someone has welded the steel tool box doors from a later car, that is why they are in the pics, so as not to confuse you, this is a 12/70 car. The original sound deadening went pretty close to the front luggage riser trim from other stock pics I have seen. I believe the bitumen went up to about 1/2" or so with cut-outs for the the luggage strap screws. I obviously went as far as the tool box doors only. These bitumen sheets are long enough for a Series II 240z but not long enough for a Series I as they would need to be about 38.75" long and the sheets are only 32" long. If you have the tool box doors in the back then these sheets are plenty long enough.

Perhaps another member might be able to supply some original pics of the rear cargo area to determine the correct position for your 7/70car. Rob

Edited April 21, 201311 yr by redzedsled

Thanks a bunch Rob!

That helps me get a visual on it. I know there are several other members (Mike B and Chuck R) that are quite interested in maintaining the originality of materials used to restore their cars.

Chuck R. made a pattern for me of his floorboards and behind the seats and sent it. It is a big help as well.

Once I get all the patterns together I will reproduce them on a 1" square grid and scan them on a large scanner I have access to at the office and I will save it as a .pdf file as a reference for everyone.

Jim D.

"Zup"

Some early reference pics of sound deadening in the rear cargo area of a Series I 240Z.

Reference pic of Series II with tool box doors in rear area.

Edited April 21, 201311 yr by redzedsled

Well, I started spraying in the Lizardskin this past Saturday. It goes on pretty well. I had treated rust with converter and rust-inhibiting primer before putting in the Lizardskin. I've used up a gallon of the sound control so far with about 75% complete. I have the door interiors left, and some touchup in areas where I think it needs to be a bit thicker. I've been taking photos, will post some time. I need to order more, and the ceramic insulation. The optional sprayer works well, and is well made. You have to take the time to clean it well though. The cup that came with my sprayer has a tiny crack in it, so I've requested a replacement. Not sure how it got there but I think during its manufacture, because it was there when I pulled it from the box.

Edited April 29, 201311 yr by bpilati

I went with Dynamat lining directly to the inner plastic side panels, and the entire wheel well. I have the horizontal rear panel speaker box that MSA sells, duel side speakers in stock brackets (Passanger side one created and rebent to install on that side) and a Subwoofer installed in a PyleDriver box (sub box made to look like a tire generally installed inside rear of SUV's) cut to sit shallower in wheel well. No rattle so far.

And you're happy with the Dynamat?

Yes very happy with Dynamat. I was going with the approach of ensuring that there would not be any rattle noises from the amp powered four speakers plus subwoofer that I installed. I didn't use it on anything up front only the insides of the rear panels and throughout the wheelwell. I have not experienced any rattle at all with the system cranked up (for testing purposes only, <cough cough>). I didn't want to eliminate road/engine noise because that's half the fun of the 240Z with my MSA performance exhaust setup. I would use Dynamat again on my other projects.