Using Chevette Springs to Re-gain Original Ride Height

[Hardway]

So after putting the front suspension back together on my '72 the King lowering springs are not going to cut it for me. They do work but the car sits too low and less than an inch off the bump stop. I want to get back to something a little more stock looking. On Zcar.com several members reported back in the late 90's and mid 2000's about using some front Chevette springs for the front and rear of a Z. They are not a bolt in affair as they have to be cut to produce the ride height that is desired but they are the correct diameter. The years to get look to be '77-85, auto. trans, and air conditioning. Moog #6558 comes up for this and seems to be what everyone else used as well. Are there any members here that have used them and have any results to report back on?

[z boy mn]

Hey Hardway, I'm not sure if we have exactly the same problem, but it's similar. My 240Z came with lowering springs, but they are too low and way too hard. To correct the problem, I spoke to Motorsport (and others) and everyone suggested the progressive Eibach springs, which should bring it back up to near-stock height (1" less) and provide a gentler ride. I like good handling, but my spine needs something softer for railroad tracks. I have not installed them yet, so I can't report on whether or not they did the trick, but I thought I'd offer my $.02 anyway. Good luck!

[Hardway]

Hey Z Boy, yeah I have read that using Eibach springs would be better but owners have reported some of the same issues that I am having already. So far from what I have read about the Chevette springs that in un-cut form they are almost 100% stock ride height and then can be cut to suit the owners taste. Plus they are supposed to be a little stiffer than the stock springs so that seems like a plus to me. For $88 for all 4 I think they are worth at least picking up a set and trying them out. My local O'Reilly Auto Parts store can get them but they will take a week to arrive as no one carries them in stock. I figure if they are not what I want I can always return them and go another direction.

[hls30.com]

The real question here is do you really believe that a $88 bandaid is a good deal when you can cure the problem and improve your cars performance for a little more than twice that...:eek:

It is your car do what makes you happy, but I think there are better answers than the one you are considering-if money is that tight, put a suitable collar spacer under the offending springs to bring the ride height up... A band aid should be a small percentage of correct answer, not nearly half of it.

As and example, The oil filled sub-frame bushings on my Z32 'vert started leaking a while back-the only way to get them is in a new $700 subframe assembly(or buy after-market Urethane replacement that ruin the ride and provide a direct and highly efficient path for noise into the cockpit by most accounts)-as I bandaid I spent $27 for a set of ebay sub-frame spacers...not quite 4% of the cost of the correct answer...

I won't even get into the ramifications of even thinking of putting chevette parts on a Z:facepalm:...but as you are out of my jurisdiction as a founding member of the Zpolice:eek:, I can tell you that is a Z forfieture transgression for sure-don't get caught pulling that stuff here in Georgia! Texas is a bit of a walk home...

Again-it is your Z, it is your money, If you can live with it will being your fault, do what makes sense to you in your situation.

Edited January 4, 2013 by hls30.com

[John Coffey]

The Chevette springs work well and give more rate then the stock springs. I've installed them (cut) on my own and customer cars. Check over on HybridZ.

EDIT: I'll post the info here:

Rate: 197 lb. in.

Stack height: 9.75" @ 800lb. corner weight

Free height: 14"

ID: 3.5"

OD: 4"

You will need to cut them to get back to a stock ride height.

Edited January 4, 2013 by John Coffey

[LeonV]

Nothing wrong with using non-Z specific parts, I'll second JC. A spring is a spring, sounds like the Chevette ones might do the trick for you.

EDIT: Wow, those springs are stiffer than I expected! Looks like a nice solution for those looking for a stock-ish ride height, but stiffer springs.

Edited January 4, 2013 by LeonV

[John Coffey]

Same rate as the Tokico 5022R (280Z rear springs).

[LeonV]

Same rate as the Tokico 5022R (280Z rear springs).

Except considerably cheaper!

Buy Chevette springs, paint them red, and they are now Tokicos. No more problems with the Z-police.

[SteveJ]

Hmm, cheaper, just as effective, and I have two Z cars with old springs.

This is something I'll have to remember.

[Zed Head]

How much effect will there be having the same rate front and back, compared to the lighter rate front springs in the stock setup?

[LeonV]

The ride may be a bit more "pitchy" for lack of a better term. In passenger cars, spring rates are typically chosen for ride quality. A stiffer rear spring makes the rear end settle quicker than the front, after a road disturbance. This decreases pitching motion felt by passengers and makes the ride more comfortable. With that said, I think you'll notice the added stiffness much more than you do the differences in front and rear rate, as the Z has a relatively short wheelbase.

Handling-wise, if you notice anything at all, stiffer front springs (all else constant) will make it tend to understeer more. This can be easily alleviated though.

[Arne]

As I recall from the days when I was futzing with the repro Nissan Euro springs, the stock spring rates were somewhere around 110 lbs. or so. The rates weren't all that different front and rear, but one end was longer than the other. So at close to 200 lbs, you should be in the same ballpark as many other performance oriented springs. Seems like the Arizona Z springs were around 200, too.

Edited January 5, 2013 by Arne
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