Full dash cover installation help

[Mike W]

Steve,

I had the same issue with the first cap that I purchased from MSA. So after I decided to removed it due to the installation screw up that I mentioned in my last post, I went with one from American Dash Caps (probably the same folks that MSA gets theirs from). Aside from the more detailed instructions they provided, they also gave the buyer the option of having the cap painted prior to being shipped. Given that I did not like the color of the one from MSA (same issue you had-too light in comparison to the rest of the interior) I had them paint my new one satin black. Much much better than the version from MSA, who did not offer the painting as an option.

This may not work for you given where you are in the install, but this is how I solved the issue that you are now having.

Mike.

[madkaw]

The color is a tricky issue. I tried some Armour all on the cover and it darkened the color quite a bit. The lighter color does match the center console in it's original condition.

Back to trying to rig bracing for the glue job!

[madkaw]

The bracing process!

Atleast my body working tools are getting used:)

[madkaw]

Not bad.

Need to paint the glove box door

[Zedyone_kenobi]

congrats!!!

Great work

[olzed]

Looks good. A flick of black vinyl spray over the glovebox door, and you're home free.

[siteunseen]

Welding clamps and sanding blocks, your a certified problem solver. Thanks a bunch because I'd never have thought of that. That looks great, I hope mine turns out 50% that good.

[madkaw]

Removing the steering wheel, heater control panel helped make this easier, plus gave additional areas to help clamp in place.

The Hazard switch is a PITA to get back in afterwards!

Be prepared to use a heat gun to make this fit snug.

Finding a good method to clamp down the top of cover is essential. Use the original defroster panel to put pressure on the lip of the cover. Once I had it snug up top, it seemed to fit better everywhere else. Don't try to apply pressure anywhere else on the top except for on the lip-the dash cover is not supposed to rest on the main surfaces. There is an air gap between most of the surfaces-that's why the instructions tell you to only glue the edges.

The glove box door barely fits unless you use the heat gun to flatten the edges.

Be super cautious with the heat gun. Set at lowest settings and stay at least 2-3 inches from the plastic. Touch the plastic thru process to see how hot it's getting. The plastic retains heat, so additional heatings will take less time.

The dash cover sticks out enough that the clamshells(steering column) are hard to get back on. I actually had to trim the back edge of the top clamshell to get it to fit.

This is not a 2 hour job, so figure on a very full day or two.

I can see how there might be difficulty in getting the speedo out if the cover is not laying flat on the dash. I think with some heat, you can persuade the cover to lay flat out of the way.

[rcb280z]

Looks good madkaw! That is the non-painted dash cap from American dash caps correct with "deep returns"? I had the MSA one that was black and it didn't blend very well with the surroundings. The deep returns are what made it impossible to remove my tach and speedo. It has lasted a long time though...17 years.

[rcb280z]

....also, you mention "air gap" on top. Does that mean if you were wiping it down one day and pressed too hard that it could collapse in the center and now there is a permanent dent?

[HermanM]

Great job and good info!!! This makes me want to buy a full cap for my 260z while I am rebuilding and waiting for the time for the FULL DASH repair/replacement

[madkaw]

Sorry I didn't reply. The air gap is supposed to be there I believe because the warranty would be void for glueing the cover in any spot OTHER than the edges. I can't imagine it would "dent" in any way. I can't imagine what circumstance would possibly cause a dent. The cover lays really close to the original dash, but you can tell there is a slight air gap.

The gauge returns are fairly deep, but the issue i see is that some don't sit completely flush against the original dash. I would think with some heat you could get the cover flush enuff to get the gauge out---or maybe not-

Now that the dash cover has been on there for a while-I still like it.

....also, you mention "air gap" on top. Does that mean if you were wiping it down one day and pressed too hard that it could collapse in the center and now there is a permanent dent?