Full dash cover installation help

[Sean240Z]

Steve,

The information you provided on your install was very helpful! When I bought my Z 23yrs ago, it had a half-dash cover installed that had since cracked (the previous owner had glued the entire top of the dash, so the cover could not expand). I just completed the install of the full face dash cover (from MSA) on my late '73 240z and although not perfect, I'm very satisfied with the results and thought I would post a few notes:

- I removed the defroster panel at the base of the windshield, the upper clamshell of the steering column and opened the glove box door to install the full dash cover;

- on my late '73, the dash cover did not fit well on the driver side air vent (i.e. lower left side of dash). The air vent on the dash was ~1/4" outboard of the corresponding opening in the dash cover (even with heat, I could not make the opening work); consequently, I had to trim the back of the air vent opening on the dash cover to allow the cover to sit flush against the dash. As a result, in the lower right quadrant of the air vent opening (i.e. ~4 to 7 o'clock position) I can see ~1/4" "fingernail" of the dash. This may be a late '73 240z peculiarity or could just be my car. Given the location, most people will not notice, but I know it's there;

- I needed to trim the lower portion of the hazard knob hole in the dash cover to make it fit (on a '73, push in and 1/4 turn the hazard knob to remove);

- the glove box door opening in the cover required some heat to make the cover fit tight against the sides (be very careful with the heat to avoid warping and shrinkage!). Even with the additional molding of the dash cover, I ended up using an orbital sander to sand down the outboard edge of the glove box door ~1/16 to an 1/8" to make it fit properly; it now opens easily. Note that the glove box door is wider on the back side than the front (i.e. a wedge shape), so the material that was removed from the door is not visible when the door is closed. After I got the door to fit, I rubbed down with fine steel wool and then buffed the area of the glove box door that I had sanded away, so you don't notice the removed material when the door is open (as an aside, until working in the glove box area, I did not realize that my glove box door was already warped/twisted (i.e. the upper right corner of the door sticks out ~1/8");

- my dash was in really bad shape and I had recently installed a new sound system (http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/50330-240z-audio-system-install.html), and needed to find a location to install the tweeters. After much deliberation, I cut holes in the new dash cover and cut corresponding holes in the top of the dash for the tweeters to flush mount and a grove in the dash to the outboard sides for the speaker wires. I'm very happy with the results (my dash was in such poor shape that this was not too difficult a decision to make). The tweeters were actually a big help in holding the cover in position;

- I found that the defroster panel at the base of the windshield really did a great job of making the cover fit properly.

- I used a Dremel with grinding bit/wheel to carefully trim/grind the dash cover;

- To brace the cover for glueing, I used the following bracing:

- two tweeters on the top outside corners of the dash;

- defroster panel, fully screwed in;

- pieces of foam between the doors and dash ends;

- four braces on the bottom edges of the dash, braced against the seat or floor:

- one left of the steering wheel;

- one on the lower left edge of the centre stack;

- one on the contoured surface between the centre stack and the glove box; and

- one under the passenger air vent.

- I worked on this installation over a couple of weeks off and on. I installed, braced, removed, trimmed, molded and reinstalled at least a dozen times to get the cover to fit as good as I could before I glued in place.

Though not perfect, I'm very happy with the results and will try to post some pics tonight.

[Sean240Z]

Attached are some pics of the final installation (I also refinished the metal spokes of my steering wheel and my wood shift knob):

[madkaw]

Looks great

[Namerow]

Nice job, great results. Your attention to planning and detail has really paid off. I'm curious about the extent of coverage this cap provides on the ends of the dash (i.e. the surfaces visible only when the doors are open). If you get a minute, what you mind posting another photo or two?

Also:

1. As you know, there's conflicting advice about where to apply the adhesive. Which approach did you choose? What adhesive did you use?

2. Do you think the cap installation clearances would have tolerated a layer of 1/16" open-cell foam between the dash and the cap? I'm thinking that the foam might provide a bit of cushioning for areas where the dash and cap don't actually meet. Maybe just use in the broad top surfaces?

[Sean240Z]

Bob,

I took a couple of pics for you. Normally, you really don't notice the edges of the dash cap. The flash used to take these pics make it a lot more noticeable.

1. I followed the directions / used the adhesive provided. I applied adhesive around the edges of the dash cap (i.e at the ends, near the windshield, at the bottom of the dash cap and around all openings).

2. I see no need to add a layer of foam. Just leave as is.

[TomoHawk]

I have to leave mine loose because I need to change bulb in the gauges about once a year. Maybe somebody will figure out how to get around that problem without spending $1500.

The other two problems I still have is that the cap will not go into the center gauge holes and meet the gauge face properly. Plus the forward edge warped where the VIN is, and does not go far enough to tuck under the defroster panel. No matter how you push in it, the forward edge is too short, an there an ugly gap the whole length across. I end up getting big point hits for the awful fit of the cap.

I also used a small drum sander on the Dremel to adjust the holes for the dimmer and odometer knobs.

I think I would not recommend any vinyl paint, unless it is satin or flat black, because the gloss paint I used causes lots of reflections in the sun.

IMO, using silicone is only recommended because if you use it in the middle, it might soften the plastic a little and leave a horrible dent.

[rcb280z]

Im not very happy with the way mine fit on my 77. I had to heat and reshape it. Got it to fit for the most part but had to cut the holes larger for the dimmer and odometer knobs. Then it got too hot in the odometer and dimmer area that it warped! Pissed me off. Will have to redo it sometime. Not an enjoyable task by any means.

[TomoHawk]

Heating and shaping the cap actually is not a hard thing to do, but it takes a LOT of time and patience.

[sparkygearhead]

I just wanted to thank everyone who created this thread.  I've installed used caps before, but I'm only now installing a brand new one.  Apparently, spending time in the hot Texas sun did wonders for helping the used caps conform to the dash of an S30!  This MSA cap doesn't fit right at all, out of the box.  I was starting to panic until I read that everyone else was having the same issue.  Seeing the mis-matched driver's-side air vent in other posts went a long way to convincing myself that I'm not a complete idiot.  

 

Good thing we've got a long weekend coming up. I have the feeling I'm going to be spending a lot of time heating and re-shaping a dash cover.

[Travel'n Man]

One of last winters projects was to remove my dash cap and console.  I also removed the door from the glove box - gave it all a good spray with SEM Color Coat 15013 Landau Black.  Everything looks great - matches nicely with the original color.  Color Coat is more of a dye than a paint.  You can't scratch that stuff off with your finernails at all.  It takes a beating and looks great.