EuroDat Posted February 8, 2013 Share #37 Posted February 8, 2013 Just use a propane or butane torch to heat the outside and twist the center bush until the rubber lets go. Then use a hacksaw to cut the outer bush tube.Thatsthe easiest way to do it.Chas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted February 8, 2013 Share #38 Posted February 8, 2013 Hi EuroDat,I'm about to purchase Type1 Airdam for 280z. I really want to see the difference between 240z and 280z. Looking forward to see your picture of valances side by side.Thanks!tamo3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted February 8, 2013 Share #39 Posted February 8, 2013 after quick research, I don't need balance in order to mount airdam.Is a front valance required for an aftermarket air dam? (78 280z) - Miscellaneous Tech - HybridZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homeboyx Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share #40 Posted February 9, 2013 Are you talking about the LCA bushing? I pressed it out yesterday already, just need a good weather and daytime to install it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 9, 2013 Share #41 Posted February 9, 2013 Tamo3, Ill post some photos today when Im back home.Homeboyx. Yer, something went wrong with post #37. I had two windows open and that post ended up here:stupid:Chas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 9, 2013 Share #42 Posted February 9, 2013 (edited) after quick research, I don't need balance in order to mount airdam.Is a front valance required for an aftermarket air dam? (78 280z) - Miscellaneous Tech - HybridZWhat Phantom says is possible, but it makes the front very flexible. the airdam has to hold it all together and its not designed with that in mind. I have heard that they can start vibrating at high speed.My 280Z has 240Z bumpers and I am planning to go to the 240/260Z valances, but then I need to fabricate a bracket across the front under the radiator section to keep all the panels in the right place. The 240/260Z front section will not fit because the front cross member (in front of the radiator) is lower on the 280Z. It dips down about 10cm. The airdam will cover the contrction so its not visable.Chas Edited February 9, 2013 by EuroDat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 9, 2013 Share #43 Posted February 9, 2013 (edited) I took some photos this morning. What I want to do is replace the 280Z valences with the 240Z with lenses. Make a support between to to valences, because the centre section will not fit the 280Z. The crossmember is too low. Fit the 260Z airdam. Make a new grill, without the 280Z lenses. My only concern is how low is the 260Z airdam. Will it be low enough to cover the lower section of the crossmember frame? Does anyone how the measurements. Bumper to lower edge of airdam? Chas Edited February 9, 2013 by EuroDat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homeboyx Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share #44 Posted February 11, 2013 Looks like it'll be easier to make the 240 turn signals fit the 280 valances.. or is one curvier(for lack of better word) than the other? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Finally an update! Finally got the old bushing pressed out and the camber adjuster set in. And then this happened.. Let's see the before and after for a full effect shall we? Before.. After.. Seems much better imo, although it may need some fine tuning from a align shop. Next up is getting a fender... since someone hasn't gotten back to me on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 12, 2013 Share #45 Posted February 12, 2013 (edited) Looks like it'll be easier to make the 240 turn signals fit the 280 valances.. or is one curvier(for lack of better word) than the other?----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Finally an update! Finally got the old bushing pressed out and the camber adjuster set in. Seems much better imo, although it may need some fine tuning from a align shop. Next up is getting a fender... since someone hasn't gotten back to me on that. That looks a lot better. The LCA chamber bushes really do the trick. Your repairs are coming along nicely. I beleive you can use any model front fender 240 - 280Z. Your idea about grafting the 240Z turn signals into the was one of my ideas, but the 280Z valences are too curvy. They have a big round bulge and there are other concerns. Ill start a new thread on that subject. Im hi-jacking your thread here. Edited February 12, 2013 by EuroDat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 12, 2013 Share #46 Posted February 12, 2013 Hi guys,I started a new post for my bumper, vlaences mod. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48611-fitting-240z-bumpers-valences-280z.htmlTry to keep Homeboyz thread for his repair job instead of hi-jacking it all the time.Chas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartsscooterservice Posted February 12, 2013 Share #47 Posted February 12, 2013 Looking good there homeboy, keep us updated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homeboyx Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share #48 Posted February 12, 2013 Thanks guys. So from what I'm understanding, the 240/260 front air dam bolts on to the stock valances for support? If it doesn't, I'm guessing it would be easier to use the 240 front turn signals with a 240 front air dam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarb
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