If you are thinking of going over to the 240z bumpers. My choice would be option 5. I toyed with the idea of fitting the 240z valences but it was a lot of work to get them to fit.

Easiest mod it to remove the 280z valences and center panel, fit 240z bumper and 240z airdam with the 240z turn signals. Then its just deciding what to do with the 280z turnsignals and grill.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48611-fitting-240z-bumpers-valences-280z.html

Tamo3 also has a thread on fitting the 240z airdam

Nice to see you got it on the road again ! Maybe a DIY paintjob in the future?

Nice to see you got it on the road again ! Maybe a DIY paintjob in the future?

It's nothing special really. You can see the sanding scratches and cracks from when the filler primer was absorbed into the rust primer underneath it from several spots and angles. haha

I would've bought some finer grade sand paper and smoothed it out somewhere, but meh..

So... problems.

I can't figure out how the quick release is suppose to latch onto the hub adapter.. and it's pissing me off! :mad:

Quick release

Hub adapter

Steering wheel with a nifty horn button

There is a ring for the hub adapter btw.. but I'm assuming it's for when you don't have a quick release.

So I'm asking in hopes for useful knowledge... HOW does the quick release attach to the hub adapter? I have a feeling this quick release won't work for it or something.. :ohgeez:

Update!

So after my little brother got managed to get himself into a car accident (everyone is just fine thank god) the Expedition is now out of order.. which means we need another car... which means there's now a flame has started under my arse to get the Z road worthy ASAP.

So today I went to the dmv and paid the transfer & tag fees, after that I took it straight to the alignment shop.. boy was that a buzz kill. Here are the wacky specs, I'll only be putting those to cut to the chase.

Driver's front wheel:

Camber= -1.8

Passenger's front wheel:

Camber= +2.2

Managed to adjust the toe near 0, caster wasn't adjustable. The rear wheels have no adjustment, but the driver's rear seems to have some toe in and the passenger some toe out..

So as of right now I'm at a crossroad..

The front-right wheel looks like it still has excessive positive camber. I suspect either frame or strut tower misalignment. It would be wise to measure things up and make sure your chassis is straight before spending money elsewhere.

As I mentioned earlier, to only get shrugged off...

It didn't get shrugged off.. I was just hoping for the best, trying to be optimistic. haha

So... do you plan to take some measurements on the chassis then? Take it to a shop that can do it for you?

The crash did more to the chassis then you can see

So... do you plan to take some measurements on the chassis then? Take it to a shop that can do it for you?

This has always been a priority actually, although it did come sooner than expected. But first, I need to get the factory specs... does anyone know where I can get them from?

Edit: Nevermind, found them in the FSM!

Update!

Went in for a smog check yesterday, needles to say, it passed with flying colors.

So after te excitement, I finally installed the ubber-cool aftermarket steering wheel... which I don't have pictures of atm.

very inspirational thread. LA? I'm in Altadena.