Homeboyx's 280z Thread

[EuroDat]

I think your camber problem could be causing the steering problems when turning left. Changing the rack wont stop it from pulling to the right when you let go of the steering wheel. That is typical a difference in caster/chamber adjustments mainly not being equal left and right wheel.

Your right front frame rail could be bent along with your crossmember from the impact on the front wheel.

This is a mod an old friend done in the 80's when he was side swiped on the left side by an uninsured driver. Being students, spending money on beer and women meant no money for a decent rideLOL. So this is what "we" did to fix his chamber problem. It turned out the crossmember was bent (15mm), but a new one would not fit because the frame was also bent. It wasnt perfect, but it worked

He welded plates in the left control arm holes on the old crossmember and re-drilled them 15mm further out. That gave him the correct chamber. He drove it for two years like that before he replaced the frame rail and the crossmember. I cant remember how it drove. I thought it was a dodgy mod at the time and still do. You need to know how far you need to move the wheel to get the right chamber. Your torsion rod would need to be adjustable as well.

Noises: From your description could be anything. The front wheel noise could be a slightly loose wheelbearing and the disc rubbing on the back shield or a stone in one of the pads, just to name a couple of things. If it is a real grinding noise you will see metal wear by now or the wheel bearing will be shot.

The vibration could be just a wheel balance problem or the tyres could have flat spots from sitting a long time on one spot. Or replace the oil in the diff and see what the oil looks like. I would first try the simples things first.

Chas

[bartsscooterservice]

now you know why you got it for peanuts... Anyhow I don't know how to explain in English, but measure the body first if it's straight, then work your way down from there

[LeonV]

now you know why you got it for peanuts... Anyhow I don't know how to explain in English, but measure the body first if it's straight, then work your way down from there

Yep, I said the same thing 2 months ago...

[Homeboyx]

So.. I took it to work today (work at a college) and I figured out my head light problem. Also, while I was there I asked a professor that teaches body shop if he can check out my car, so he did and said that he'd have to check his softwares to see if he has the measurements for my specific car so he can do it the easy way and let the computer measure everything out, so he'll get back to me on thursday. I'm trying to not get to excited since he's a busy guy and well.. it's a college so even though I don't want to think about it too much, I just know that if I do leave the car in campus it will take a while 'til it gets finished. I just don't have the luxury to do that unfortunately..

[Homeboyx]

Just wondering.. does anybody know where these are suppose to go? It seems like they have twice the range than the ones I have on currently.

Motorsport! Street Camber Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

I can almost swear I've seen some adjusters like these...

Motorsport! Camber Adjustment Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

but with a greater adjustment range, but I can't seem to find them anymore. Maybe I was dreaming? haha

Edited April 20, 2013 by Homeboyx

[EuroDat]

Just wondering.. does anybody know where these are suppose to go? It seems like they have twice the range than the ones I have on currently.

Motorsport! Street Camber Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

I can almost swear I've seen some adjusters like these...

Motorsport! Camber Adjustment Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

but with a greater adjustment range, but I can't seem to find them anymore. Maybe I was dreaming? haha

The "Street chamber kit" strut insulator is for the top section of the strut above the spring. You already have a "chamber adjusting kit" and the amount of adjustment is limited to the diameter of the lower control arm bushing.

Making your strut tower adjustable might not give you enough because standard springs dont give you much freedom of movement. This is generally done with coilovers which have a smaller diameter.

I think your trying to solve simptoms and not the problem. During the impact the control arm collapsed but before it did it gave the crossmember a heavy push which moved it and the frame. Your problem is in the position of the anchor point for the lower control arm. This in relation to the rest of the anchor points (strut insulator and tension rod) is whats causing your alignment problems.

The correct but expensive and time consuming task is to straighten or replace the bent section of the frame and replace the crossmember. Not knowing how far its bent I would also have to ask myself "is this worth it". It could be better to use this car as a parts car on another project Z.

If you need it short term as a daily driver: An alternative if the frame is only bent, not cracked and doesnt have torn welds is to correct the position of the lower control arm anchor. You have already tried this with the "chamber adjusting kit" which was not enough. The only options then is an adjustable control arm or reposition the anchor point.

You will need to know how far to move it, maybe the college can help you work that out and then decide what to do.

Or another alternative is find another daily driver. This might be your best option.

Here is a photo of repositioning the lower anchor point. This one is done to correct geomentry after lowering the car and widening the track, but the method is the same.

Goodluck

Chas

[EuroDat]

Just accured to me, you mist a golden opportunity to see how far its out. You could go back to the wheel alignment guy and ask him to check the chamber with the chamber adjuster all the way in towards the engine and then with the adjuster all the way out. Measure the distance between outer en inner points, then you know the distance per degree chamber for if you decide to move anchor point.

Ask him how far (in degrees chamber) you need to go to be within spec. Then you can work out your next step.

Maybe a street chamber kit will be enough? Motorsport can tell you how much you can adjust.

Chas

Edited April 20, 2013 by EuroDat

[Homeboyx]

So I've just realized something, it looks like all s30's I've seen have this(refer to the picture) going on to some degree.. can anyone explain to me why? Car in the picture is not mine by the way.

That's the rear driver's side wheel FYI.

[Homeboyx]

Thought I'd update this with a ****ty pic of how she is right now.

And some of the goodies I received last week.

[Homeboyx]

Here's a even ****tier picture with both ladies side by side after their bath. I absolutely love how the front air dam came out after I coated it with plasti-dip!

[Homeboyx]

So after being annoyed with the yellow overspray all over the place I decided to do something about it.

And here's a pic I took not too long ago to contrast and make up for the first ****ty cell pic. :mhihi:

[Homeboyx]

Update time:

Since I was painting and everything was off on the front I decided to take an extra step and start removing both fenders so I can lessen the eyesore of the damage and rust.

On to the pictures..

Today I managed to do the passenger side.

After some brushing with the drill since the home electrical circuit can't handle my die grinder.

Erhm... I have a feeling this is not suppose to be.

The infamous dogleg..

Damage... this is another consequence cause by hit.

Looking directly from below..

The day ended after I sprayed it with rust primer.

This is definitely not going to be a show car result since I have limited supplies but atleast the car will end up being all one color.

More to come tomorrow...