My Datsun 240Z

[EuroDat]

Hi Bart, The engine bay is cleaning up very nicly.

Goodluck with the inspection next week

Chas

[BRN_280Z]

Nice 240Z and good luck with the inspection, even in my country my car failed in the inspection

[bartsscooterservice]

Thanks , yeah it can be a hell..., but thank god it's only once. I must say the RDW folks seem nicer and gentlier to the car then the APK guys ( yearly inspection can be at any garage ), APK they usually check play to suspesion parts with a crow bar or something, but with the RDW they use a special designed plate in the floor or something.

I'm still not finished with the car to get to RDW, although the rear drums fit now, and the car it back on it's wheels, still need to bleed the brake and do some more work in the engine bay.

Bart

Edited March 8, 2013 by bartsscooterservice

[EuroDat]

Hi Bart, I dont know how you plan to bleed the brakes but FWIW.

After rebuiding my the calipers, replacing the wheel cylinders, shoes and pads I used a self made vacuum system with a small tank and a water vacuum cleaner to draw the brake fluid through the system. First apply the handbrake a couple of times to adjust the rear brakes.

That way I didnt have to push the pedal to the floor and damage the mastercylinder rubber cups. The master cylinder is generally toast after that. The cups get damaged when they go over the corroded bore. If it has not been replaced in the last couple of years, the chances are it will be corroded.

I did this about 18 months ago and the master cylinder worked good. Im now in the process of rebuilding the brake switch and proportioning valve. Pulled the M/C apart and it was really badly corroded inside. It was so bad, when I pushed it in all the way in it didnt come back. It was stuck. I have ordered a new one from blackdragon, waiting for it to come in.

Chas

[LeonV]

First apply the handbrake a couple of times to adjust the rear brakes.

FYI, this is not the proper way to adjust the drums, refer to the FSM. You won't have full braking performance unless they are adjusted correctly.

[olzed]

Thanks , yeah it can be a hell..., but thank god it's only once. I must say the RDW folks seem nicer and gentlier to the car then the APK guys ( yearly inspection can be at any garage ), APK they usually check play to suspesion parts with a crow bar or something,

Bart

Here in New Zealand our cars have to go through a check every six months, and they go through everything, and also check suspension and steering components with a bar.

[EuroDat]

FYI, this is not the proper way to adjust the drums, refer to the FSM. You won't have full braking performance unless they are adjusted correctly.

I thought I was quoting the FSM for the 280Z??

[EuroDat]

Here in New Zealand our cars have to go through a check every six months, and they go through everything, and also check suspension and steering components with a bar.

In the Netherlands we only need a pink slip (APK) every two years for old timers. All cars before 1987 were road tax exempt, but the government saw a chance to earn €€€ and they are starting to change the rules:disappoin

Bart is right about the inspectors being rough on the cars. The last inspection I had done, the mechanic damaged the ball joint rubber on my left front wheel. Lukily I stayed with him for the inspection, but too late to stop him doing that on the first joint he tested. Told him if he keeps that up Ill use that pinch bar on him. I wont be using him again.

Chas

[LeonV]

I thought I was quoting the FSM for the 280Z??

I was unclear, sorry. You're correct if the shoes haven't been messed with and the handbrake is correctly adjusted. I think I mixed up the FSM and John Coffey's (I think?) suggestion based on his experiences.

FWIW, a worn/maladjusted handbrake will not allow full adjustment of the rear brakes.

[bartsscooterservice]

Hi Bart, I dont know how you plan to bleed the brakes but FWIW.

After rebuiding my the calipers, replacing the wheel cylinders, shoes and pads I used a self made vacuum system with a small tank and a water vacuum cleaner to draw the brake fluid through the system. First apply the handbrake a couple of times to adjust the rear brakes.

That way I didnt have to push the pedal to the floor and damage the mastercylinder rubber cups. The master cylinder is generally toast after that. The cups get damaged when they go over the corroded bore. If it has not been replaced in the last couple of years, the chances are it will be corroded.

I did this about 18 months ago and the master cylinder worked good. Im now in the process of rebuilding the brake switch and proportioning valve. Pulled the M/C apart and it was really badly corroded inside. It was so bad, when I pushed it in all the way in it didnt come back. It was stuck. I have ordered a new one from blackdragon, waiting for it to come in.

Chas

The mastercylinder is replaced for one which was almost new , I have a special system to bleed the brakes, I also use that for my work on the scooters.. but the same idea as you suggested.

[bartsscooterservice]

Guys thanks for your help! The car is running again, fired right up after it filled the fuel bowls. Although the " rattling " noise is clearly coming from the valves. Any advice on engine oil? There's 20w50 in it now, but not sure about that oil...maybe it's to thick? Anyhow one step closer again to the RDW

View My Video

[bartsscooterservice]

Lukily I stayed with him for the inspection, but too late to stop him doing that on the first joint he tested. Told him if he keeps that up Ill use that pinch bar on him. I wont be using him again.

Chas

one has to be afraid when the APK inspection guy is walking under your classic car with a crow bar...