I recommend 10w-30 oil with high ZDDP content.

20w-50 oil is probably overkill. A healthy stock engine, does not need any more than 10/30 oil unless you live in death valley. I always suspected cars with heavy oil were trying to cover up worn bearings. I would take the time to adjust the valves. It is only about an hour job, and you can sleep easy at night knowing that the valves are happy.

Hi Bart, I agree with Zedyone. 10W-30 or 15W-40 in the summer, but 20W-50 is too think IMO.

I suggest an oil with ZDDP. It not in all the oils these day, but that is what the engines had when they came out.

This is a post fromanother thread:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/47802-synthetic-oil-change-interval.html

When the Z's first came out, oil had ZDDP (zinc). That is greatly reduced in new oils, but still availably in Valvoline VR1 en Mobile 1. The zinc helps protect old engines. They were designed for ZDDP before the EPA cracked down on emmisions in the 80's.

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf

Chas

Nice 240Z and good luck with the inspection, even in my country my car failed in the inspection

What's the regulations in your country? Curious..

@ Zedd and Euro: Thanks your advice seems to be correct. I looked up the engine oil with Kroon Oil, and they also recommended 15w40 classic multigrade with additives. Alternatives seems 10w30 and even a single grade 30 weight, I guess they used that back in the old days huh?

I'm going to get the right oils tomorrow

Valve play was corrected according to the manual with hot motor. But i'll try cold, they must be having to much play

Edited March 10, 201312 yr by bartsscooterservice

Hi Bart,

Try a search on valve clearence. There was a thread just a couple of weeks ago about this same problem

Chas

I changed the valve clearance on a cold engine. Sound is now less but still rattling also as it goes up in rpm...

I found another thread on a worn rocker arm, but who knows..it might be anything.

It's still rattling, clearly coming from the valve train, I did find a thread of worn rockers, maybe that's the problem. I'll have a closer look later on.

Brakes are done, will try to go RDW friday.

Finally ! RDW is done, next week it will have Dutch license plates

Finally ! RDW is done, next week it will have Dutch license plates

Well thats good news. Congratulations.

Grats Bart. That great news

Chas

Thanks, I'm happy to it's finally done..

Meanwhile waiting for the paperwork for the plates, I'm working on a few things that need to be done, before I can try it on the road. Got all 3 clocks working again somehow..

Also found out the heater hoses where knacked inside the car, so that will not work offcourse.. will try to get other ones from the scrapyard tomorrow. Operating valve was jammed, but wd40 and patience fixed it.

The 3 slide controls also operate smooth again..wd40 was my friend in all the cases.

By fixing the clock, I removed the front panel, then the 3 nuts on the back and took the clock out together with the faceplate and dials still on it. Then lubed it a bit with wd40 on all components, than attaced a car battery and put the - on and off a few times, untill the motor came loose, and the spring was wind up a bit, then I connected the - and it was working again.

View My Video

Okay, so I was happy I got the meters and clock on the dash working again.. and replaced the knicked heater hoses with good ones....yesterday faith struck me again.

First RDW called, they made a mistake with some copy of the US ownership paperwork, and they needed the original one.. oke so I brought them.., but this means it will take another week before I can get the plates and put insurance on it.

Second... then in the evening I saw coolant leaking from both sides of the tunnel to the floormats... ~*&^$$!! ... Ripped the floormats out, and luckily not much wet.

First I thought the operating valve, but seemed " dry ", then when I pulled one hose of and looked inside, it was all wet... yup.

Used search function here on the forum on how to get the damn thing out, and it seemed possible without removing the entire dash.

Started on it this morning, and I managed to get it out within 2 hours time ( new record ? ), it helped by removing the front splitter panel from the heater core, to slide it out easily.

And here we are now...

My dad repaired the radiator before with solder, that worked, but not sure if this is repairable... what do you guys think? If you look at the 2nd picture above connection seems wet, possible leak from there? I will try to have a look at it this evening.

Bart

Edited March 21, 201312 yr by bartsscooterservice