I have driven my car on a very cold day (-15 degrees) a while back in the winter to have the restoration done at my brothers shop.

The carb prewarming piping is not there anymore.

It took about 20 miles before I could run without the choke.

It likes the cold about as much as I do.

 

 

On ‎3‎/‎2‎/‎2020 at 1:19 PM, Patcon said:

The fans were painted an ivory white color

Are you sure. Look at the one from BATT ( they claim Original so.. ? ) it's clearly yellow zinc plated or I must be blind, or they must have done this themselves ?

 

 

My early 71 had a steel fan painted ivory white. No plating.

19 hours ago, bartsscooterservice said:

 it's clearly yellow zinc plated or I must be blind,

Yep i do say it: your blind  ?  look at the under hood light and then at the fan.. the fan is clearly a off color white IVORY....   koekebakker..  ?

I found one here in the Netherlands by luck..

It seems in good condition, I have a question maybe somebody knows it here, there seems to be some metal sanded of on one blade, is this normal ( for balance ? ) or not ?

 

Rebuild Hood hinges are on! Finally it's good again very happy with the result ?

Those fans:

Bart, the metal fan is indeed painted "whale tusk white" and it is not plated.  They were not properly balanced from the factory and at the higher revolutions offered by the engine, in a sports car, had a tendency to cause undue wear to the water pump bearings.  By the way they are constructed, they had a tendency to throw a blade causing significant damage.  That's why they were replaced with the nylon fans.  The nylon fans flexed and self balanced and they didn't throw blades.

If you plan to use the metal fan system, I highly recommend that you have it balanced and inspected for metal fatigue at the rivet joints.  When you have your example balanced, you will be able to determine if the one blade you refer to is sanded for that purpose or not.  If it is, then don't let anybody give you any crap for it!

Bart, i advice you to do it like i did.. put a nylon fan on the car so you have no problems and hang the metall fan on the wall.. very decorative

(Yeah i know mine is the wrong color.. as we say: Boejúúúúhh..  (Meaning: don't care for that.))

@ Mart: good one

Some pictures from yesterday with my mom's BMW Z3, fun car, but to small engine only 1.8. Paint and rims are not perfect on the Z3, but that's not my job to do ?

When I picked up the 240 from the paint shop he said the rear deck lid was starting to get bad and have to replace it within 2 years. So I ordered a replacement panel from the US. Maybe next year together with the floor pans ?

 

Did put some new breaker points into the Z after 6k miles on the rebuild yesterday. 

Currently I'm busy with the AOD from the Mustang, it's a PAIN IN THE arse to build a proper high performance AOD I can tell you..

Took my 3 years to finally found what was necessary, I eventually got the parts from Silverfox Transmissions and it's currently at a local shop here. 

8 out of 10 shops only know basic stuff and basic rebuilds, when it comes to high performance it's a whole different ball game.

The guy from the shop here also adviced to update the forward and direct drums to the SONNAX type ( because the stock stamped steels are prone to failure and have weak points ), but currently I'm having a tech conversation about that with SilverFox and Sonnax, and will know next week what to do.

Basically the stock AOD is a trans only used for low HP and torque applications. It's 2 piece input shaft design, and lockup converter and valve body are worthless even with a shift kit when it comes to higher hp..

BUT they can be build up to 1200 hp. 

Now i've updated the converter to a non lockup custom billet ( with reinforced pilot ), ONE piece input shaft, and a manual valve body  ( which cures the pressure problems ). 

Internals are upgraded to later AODE/4R70W parts with Raybestos bleu plates and all the other little parts that are upgraded to.

Silverfox claims this is good up to 700hp and 750TQ, but the local builder here questioned the drums, so I will look into that a little more, just want to be sure. I'd rather have an overkill build, than having to remove it AGAIN.

 

 

Here's a picture of the Mustang before I took the transmission out..

 

I still had to replace the steering box on the mustang, so finished this last couple of days. In an earlier stage I allready replaced the rest of the steering assembly.

I thought this would solve the left to right play in the steering wheel from inside the car, now everything is replaced but it is still there, maybe I need to adjust something, somewhere, I did email the guy who sold it to me, so waiting for his reply/advice.

Now wait for the transmission to be back early september